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Book »N 4- 



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WHITIN MACHINE WORKS 

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Manufacturers of 

TEXTILE MACHINERY 




~* 



WHITIN PLAIN LOOM 



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Southern Agent 



HOW TO UNRAVEL KINKS IN HUMID1FICATION 

WRITE TO THE 

American Moistening Company 

120 Franklin Street, Boston, Mass. 

William Firth, President Frank B. Comins, Vice-Prest. and Treas 

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Draper Corporation 

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PRACTICAL 
LOOM FIXING 



By 

THOMAS NELSON 

Director Textile Department, North Carolina State 

College of Agriculture and Engineering 

West Raleigh, N. C. 



Copyrighted 1917 by Thomas Nelson 



T£ /49 s 



PREFAGE 

The writer of this book hopes that 
it will be of some help to those who 
are interested in the construction and 
fixing of looms. 

Thomas Nelson 
West Raleigh, N. C. 



\V 



NOV 24 1917 
©CLA477733 



w 



PRACTICAL LOOM FIXING 

BY THOMAS NELSON 



V^ CHAPTER I 

Plain Looms. 

For fabrics, such as sheetings, print cloths, lawns, mulls and other 

/ W fabrics that are woven on two harness shafts, the plain loom is used. 

^4. This loom has the shedding cams on the bottom shaft in the loom and 

J_>only fabrics that are made with two harness shafts can be made on 

same. When fabrics such as drills, denims, hickory stripes or twill 

goods have to be made, the same loom can be used with the addition of 

^-~ an auxiliary shaft to carry the shedding cams, the cams being driven 

jj* from the bottom shaft in the loom. 

Plain looms are divided into two classes, viz., regular plain looms 
<J> and automatic looms. The foundation for all plain looms is practically 
sj the same, the only essential difference being the automatic attachment 
for transferring bobbins or shuttles. The various movements of a loom 
are usually divided into two divisions, principal and auxiliary movements, 
the principal movements being considered as the shedding, picking, and 
beating up movements. All the movements must work in unison with 
each other if the best results are to be obtained from the loom. The 
movements may be itemized as follows: 1, shedding motion; 2, picking 
motion; 3, beating up the filling; 4, let-off motion; 5, take-up motion; 
6, filling stop motion; 7, warp stop motion; 8, protector motion. In ad- 
dition to these there is the tape selvage motion, used on twill and sateen 
goods; temples, lease rods. 

Shedding Motion. 
Fig. 1 is a sketch of a shedding motion for plain fabrics, also lay 
cap, reed, lay and lay sword of the beating-up motion. The ends for a 
plain fabric are drawn through the harness from back to front, begin- 
ning from the right hand side. As one harness is raised and the other 
lowered, the ends are opened and make what is known as the "shed," 
through which the shuttle travels with the filling, hence the motion to 
obtain this separating of the ends is known as the shedding motion. 

Names of Parts. — A, is the harness roll on which are the collars 
B. B. Each collar is of two sizes, one being about one-eighth to one- 
iourth of an inch larger than the other. C, the harness straps connecting 
collar to harness D. E, jack stick; F, jack strap connecting harness to 
treadle G. H, treadle ball; I, shedding cams; K, fulcrum of treadles. 
Setting Shedding Motion. 
When starting up a new warp there are two conditions which it is 
aboslutely necessary to consider, otherwise a shed of sufficient size 
for the shuttle to pass through cannot be obtained. These two con- 
ditions are first, collar on harness roll; second, the shedding cams. The 
collar is of two distinct sizes, one being larger than the other. The 
shedding cams also are of two sizes, one being larger than the other. 
Each collar must be arranged so that the strap on largest part will be 
connected to back harness and the shedding cams must be set so that 
the largest cam will also operate the back harness. 

If either of these two conditions are not strictly carried out, the shed 
for one pick will be larger than the shed for the next pick. The reasons 
for this connecting of the harness to the harness roll and treadles can 



10 Practical Loom Fixing 

more readily be explained on reference to Fig. 1. The shed is formed 
from the fell of cloth, (fell of cloth is last pick of filling put in cloth), 
the harness and lease rods. The back harness being farther away from 
the fell of cloth has to travel a greater distance than the front harness 
in order to make the same size of shed for the shuttle to pass through, 




Figure 1. 



Practical Loom Fixing 11 

consequently that harness is connected to the largest cam. Also the 
back harness being connected to the treadle nearer the fulcrum, it is 
necessary that the treadle move a greater distance to compensate for 




Figure 2. 



12 



Practical Loom Fixing 



this. The front harness, not having to move as far, is therefore, operat- 
ed by the smallest shedding cam. 

With the harness roll and the shedding cams in their correct posi- 
tions and the harness connected up, all parts of the shedding motion 
should be level when the harness are crossing each other. 

When the cams are level, the treadles should also be level and the 

treadle balls in con- 
tact with the cams, 
the harness should be 
level and the harness 
roll should be level. 
Not only should the 
front and back har- 
ness be level but the 
ends of the harness 
should also be level, 
that is, one end should 
not be lower than the 
other. The harness 
roll should be level so 
that when the harness 
are open, the straps 
will not lap under 
each other. 

Fig. 1, on page 10, 
illustrates a good set- 
ting of the shedding 
motion. It will be no- 
ticed that the harness 
straps operate per- 
fectly on the collar, 
there not being any 
underlapping of the 
straps. The front har- 
ness is just low enougb 
to prevent chafing of 
the ends by the for- 
ward and backward 
movement of the lay 
and the treadle balls 
are in contact with the 
shedding cams. 

Fig. 2, on page 11, 
illustrates a very faul- 
ty setting of the shed- 
ding motion. The har- 
ness roll has been set 
correctly as will be 
seen by the straps, but 
Figure 3. the front harness is 

too low, the yarn bearing heavily on the race board, indicated by arrow. 
The treadle ball on treadle operating back harness is not in contact 
with the shedding cam — indicated by arrow. The lay is shown as be- 
ing up against the harness. The consequent result of such a setting as 
this is as follows: The ends resting too heavily on race board will 




Practical Loom Fixing 



13 



chafe or "button," that is, small lumps or buttons will be made on the 
ends through the rubbing of the race board against the ends when 
the lay is moving backwards and forwards with the result that it is 
practically impossible to obtain a perfect fabric as the ends will be 
continually breaking out. The treadle ball should be in contact with 
the shedding cam for the whole of the revolution of cam so that the 
harness will have an easy movement. With the treadle ball as illus- 
trated, the cam will strike the ball and this in turn will cause the har- 



p 



c 






Figure 4. 

ness eyes on that shaft to come suddenly in contact with the ends 
causing many to break out and will also have a tendency to cut the 
harness eyes and otherwise wear out the harness, thereby producing 
fautly cloth and increasing the cost of manufacturing the cloth. 



14 Practical Loom Fixing 

The front harness should never be set too close to the lay. If thfe 
lay strikes the harness, the harness twine will be cut wherever the lay 
comes in contact with it. Not only at these points will the harness twine 
be cut, but the lay, in striking the harness will force it back and when 
the harness is at the bottom and is knocked back by the lay, the top of 
the eyes are very easily cut. This is because the ends are tight and cut 
into the top of the eye and especially if the yarn is hard sized. 



A 



3 



C 





I 



Figure 5. 
Setting Harness Roll. 

At A, Fig. 3, (page 12), is illustrated the correct method of setting 
the harness roll when the harness is level. This is indicated by the heavy 
line passing through center of roll and showing that the harness strap 



Practical Loom Fixing 15 

screws are directly opposite to each other. B shows the harness open 
with the back harness strap wrapped around the collar and the front 
harness strap unwound from the collar. This gives the easiest working 
of the roll and harness because each harness shaft is raised and lowered 
its required distance without either of the straps lapping under. 

Fig. 4 (page 13) illustrates a very faulty setting of the harness roll and 
one which is very often seen. A illustrates the setting of harness roll with 
the harness level. This is indicated by the line drawn through the roll 
from one harness strap screw to the other. B shows the result of the 
setting when the front harness is lowered and the back harness raised. 
The back harness strap is not wrapped around the collar sufficiently, 
neither is the front harness strap sufficiently wound from the collar. 
This, of itself and on this pick, does not have any unfavorable results, 
but, on the next pick, illustrated at C, when the back harness is lowered 
the result of this setting is very readily seen. On this pick, the front 
harness strap laps under itself, indicated by a X, and this raises the 
front harness higher than it should. Not only this, but the harness is 
given a sudden jerk which strains the yarn and when fine yarns are 
used this is often the cause of breaking out the ends and making uneven 
cloth. This jerky motion is also very detrimental to the harness and 
causes them to wear out sooner. The sketch also illustrates the strain 
that is put on the back harness strap and the harness itself. The stretch- 
ing of the harness causing the harness eyes to be pulled tight is often the 
means of cutting the ends in the eyes, as well as cutting the eyes them- 
selves. The life of this harness is considerably reduced. 

Fig. 5 (page 14) illustrates the setting of harness roll directly opposite 
to Fig 4 as line through harness roll indicates. The same unfavorable 
results will occur as in previous setting of roll. In addition to these 
defects, there is also the possibility of another defect appearing which in 
its results is worse than the foregoing. It will be noticed at B that the 
front harness and harness straps is stretched tight on this pick. 

If also on this pick, the lay should knock against the front harness, 
the top of the eyes would be cut because the ends which are drawn 
through the harness are tight and they would act as a knife on the 
top of harness eyes. Especially will this be the result if the harness 
twine is a little too fine for the goods being made, as sometimes happens, 
especially when the warp is drawn through the harness by the drawing 
in machine, as this requires a spiral spring through the harness in 
order to keep each eye separate, therefore a finer twine has to be used. 
Again, many looms are constructed with too little space between the lay 
and the loom arch and it is very difficult to keep the lay from striking 
the harness. In some cases this can be remedied by using a deeper 
harness. In any and every case, the harness should be set so that the 
lay will not strike them during weaving as this causes a large expense 
to the mill as well as a loss in production for the weaver. The back 
harness is raised too high and receives a sudden jerk when the straps 
lap under, as illustrated at X in B. At C, the straps do not have any bad 
effect on the weaving, the bad effects resulting from B. 

Summarized, the setting of the shedding motion should be as follows: 

1. Have harness roll level, harness strap screws opposite each other. 

2. Have harness level, both front to back and side to side. 

3. Have treadles level. 

4. Have shedding cams level. 

5. Have treadle balls set against the cams so as to be in contact with 
the cams for the full revolution. 



16 



Practical Loom Fixing 



6. Have harness set so that the lay will not strike against the front 
harness. 

7. Have harness set so that when shed is open, the yarn will not 
rest on the race plate, neither be too high off the race plate. It is only 
necessary for the yarn to just touch the race plate. 




Figure 6. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



17 



Timing of Shedding Motion. 

A shedding motion can be set on three different timings as follows: 
late, medium, early. The medium and early timings are most generally 
used. For medium timing have harness level with crank between 
bottom and front center, illustrated in Fig. 6 at A. For early timing 
have harness level with crank on bottom center, illustrated in Fig. 6, 
at B. Many loom fixers measure the distance of the reed from fell of 
cloth and then set the harness level. For uniformity, this method is not 
as preferable as timing by the position of crank on crank shaft. There 
is a difference in the results obtained in certain fabrics with these two 
timings. On fabrics that do not have an excessive number of picks per 
inch the medium timing is very often used but on fabrics requiring a 
large number of picks per inch, the early timing is preferable. In plain 
goods, such as 80x80, the only way in which this number of picks can 
be put in the cloth is by early timing. When this timing is used, the 
ends have crossed the last pick of filling put in the cloth and holds it 
in place so that the reed has only to beat this one pick firmly into 
position. 



CHAPTER II 

Measurements for Size of Shed. 

When a shedding cam has to be constructed it is necessary to ascer- 
tain the stroke of cam required to raise and lower the harness the re- 
quired distance. With the cams already on loom, the size of shed these 
cams will give can very readily be obtained. When making these calcu- 
lations it must be remembered that there is always some loss caused 







^-~ ( — ) ■&- 






£ ft 








n r 




^ 


FIG.7 







by the stretching of the straps, the method of connecting the various 
parts and the setting of the motion. This loss amounts oh an average to 
about three-quarters of an inch. 



18 



Practical Loom Fixing 



Take for example the following measurements of a shedding motion. 
Length of treadle from fulcrum to point of connection with front harness 
22 inches. Distance from fulcrum to treadle ball, 14 inches. Stroke of 
cam, 3 inches. Distance of front harness from fell of cloth, 7% inches. 
Distance of front of shuttle to fell of cloth, 3% inches. What will be the 
size of shed? 22X3-^14=4.714 inches, distance through which front har- 
ness moves. 4.714 X3.5H-7 .5=2.2 inches size of shed. 2.2— .75=1.45 inches 
actual size of shed, after allowing three-quarters of an inch for stretch- 
ing of straps and lost motion. A shuttle about 1% deep would be used for 
this size of shed. 

Shedding Cams. 

In plain goods, two shedding cams are used and one is always 
larger than the other. The largest cam always operates the back 
harness because this harness is farther away from the fell of clotb 




and has to travel a greater distance in order to make the same size of 
shed as the front harness. The back harness is also connected nearer 
the fulcrum and for these reasons a larger cam is required. On twih 
and sateen goods, the cam that operates the front harness is the smallest, 
with an increase in size of each cam that operates the second, third, 
fourth and fifth harness respectively. 

All shedding cams have a certain amount of pause or dwell, that is v 
each harness when full open is stationary a certain length of time to 
allow the shuttle to pass through the shed. This is often called the 
dwell of the cams, and has a certain relation to the time occupied by 
one revolution of crank shaft. 

The shedding cams for plain goods may be classed under three 
heads: First, one-third dwell cam; second, one-half dwell cam; third, 
two-thirds dwell cam. The term dwell, refers to the portion of a revolu- 
tion of crank shaft that the harness dwells or is stationary. The one- 



Practical Loom Fixing 19 

third dwell cam can only be used on narrow looms, because of the short 
time the harness remains open for the shuttle to pass through. 

When tender or poor yarns have to be woven this dwell cam may 
be used. A smaller shuttle has often to be used so as to get clear through 
the shed on time. 

The one-half dwell cam is the best practical cam that can be used. 
The harness are open for one-half revolution of crank shaft, which gives 
sufficient time for the shuttle to get clear through the shed, and one-half 
revolution for the harness to change. This cam is frequently used on 
narrow looms, always on medium width looms and often on wide looms. 

The two-third dwell cam, when used, is only used on extra wide 
looms, which requires extra time for the shuttle to pass through the 
shed from one shuttle box to the other. The harness are open for two- 
thirds revolution of crank shaft, but this only leaves one-third revolu- 
tion in which to change the harness, consequently a sudden movement is 



E f^^^s^^^^fflf 


F 


Flo.9. 

1 "" ■ > 


1 



given to the harness which has a tendency to strain the yarn and alsc 
tends to quickly wear out the harness. Soft or tender yarns can not 
be woven with this cam, because of the sudden changing of the harness. 

Construction of Cams. 

Cams should be constructed so that the harness will be raised or 
lowered without any jumping or jerking motion. The easier the harness 
can be moved up and down, the better will be the weaving. In construc- 
ting a cam, care should be taken so that there will not be any depres- 
sions in same or the treadle ball will have a tendency to lock or bind, 
especially with a small ball. 

The following illustrations are given to show in a clear way the 
principle on which cams for plain weaves are constructed. Three cams 
are given, each having the same measurement, but with different dwells: 
Fig. 7 (page 17) having one-third dwell, Fig. 8 (page 18) one half dwell, 
Fig. 9 two-thirds dwell. 

To make plain goods, two cams are necessary as pattern repeats on 



20 Practical Loom Fixing 

two picks, but only one cam need be illustrated as this will show the 
principle. Measurements: diameter of pick cam shaft \>k inches; 
diameter of cam hub, % inch; stroke of cam, 3 inches; diameter of treadle 
ball, 2 inches; dwell % revolution of crank shaft. 

To construct cam: One, describe circle A, which equals diameter of 
shaft; two, describe circle B, which equals hub or inner throw of cam; 
three, describe circle C, which equals the radius and center of treadle 
ball, with ball in contact with inner throw of cam; four describe circle 
D, which equals the radius and center of treadle ball, with ball in contact 
with outer throw of cam; five, divide circles into as many parts as there 
are picks in pattern. This is shown by line E F; six mark off dwell on 
each half of circles, illustrated by B, H, I, K; seven, divide space between 
G I and H K into six equal parts; eight, divide the space between 
circles G and D in six unequal parts, having smallest on outside and 
largest in center; nine, begin at one side with bottom corner of unequal 
parts, and on each of the corners describe circle as made by treadle ball. 
This will finish on outer circle on that side at H. On opposite side 
begin on outer circle, at G, and finish on inner circle. Ten, make out- 
line of cam by curved line touching extremities of treadle ball. 

CHAPTEE ni 

Picking Motion. 

This is one of the most important motions on the loom. It is this 
motion that causes so much power to be required to drive the loom. 

Description of Picking Motion. 
Unless all parts are adjusted and set correctly, there will be a consider- 
able waste in supplies such as breaking of picker sticks, lug straps, shut- 
tles, etc., as well as a loss of production caused by loom having to stop 
to replace broken parts. Especially will this be the case when too much 
; "pick" is used. It is the aim of all good loom fixers to reduce the 
"pick" required to drive the shuttle across the lay to its lowest amount 
for in this way the loom runs with the smallest amount of attention from 
the fixer. 

The picking motion on a cotton loom is generally known as the "cone" 
or "ball" pick and is illustrated at Fig. 10 (page 21). The pick cam A is 
fixed in the pick cam shaft in the loom. Above the cam the cone B is 
connected to the picking shaft C, the shaft being held to the side of the 
loom by two pick shaft boxes. The picking arm D extends downward 
from the picking shaft and to this shaft is connected the lug straps. 

It will be noticed that the picking cone is not set directly over the 
center of the picking cam. With this arrangement the picking cam 
comes in contact with the cone forcing it upward, whereas if the cone 
had been directly over the center of picking cam, the cam would' have a 
tendency to drive the picking shaft forward against the pick shaft box. 

A point to be noticed in regard to this picking cam is the shape. This 
shape of cam gives a gradual development of power or force behind the 
shuttle, or in other words, a gradual increase in speed is given to the 
shuttle from the beginning of pick until the shuttle leaves the picker. 
This principle of driving the shuttle is much preferable to a sudden blow. 

The shape of the pick point also deserves consideration. If the pick 
point F is too hollow there is a tendency to lock or bind the cone which 
gives a jump to the motion and occasionally tends to break the picking 
shaft. With the pick point too narrow and straight a soft pick is the 
result, causing the loom to bang off. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



21 



Some picking cams have a circular base with a large pick point. These 
cams are generally keyed on the shaft, and adjustment in timing of pick 
can be made by moving the pick point backward or forward. 

On a new loom the pick point should be flush with the outer end of 
picking cone. On a loom that has been in operation for a number of 
years it is sometimes necessary to move the cam nearer the side of the 
loom in order to obtain the power required. The picking shaft should 
be set so that the picking cone will drop on the cam immediately after 
picking and travel around the cam until it is picked again. If the shaft 
is not set correctly, the cone does not drop immediately and in some 
cases only comes in contact with the cam just previous to picking, caus- 
ing a weak pick. Care should be taken in setting the picking shaft so as 




Figure 10. 

to have the cone full into the pick point and also have the end of pick 
point full against the cone for unless this is done much of the power 
is lost, The dropping of the picking cone in the same place after each 
pick eventually has its effect on the picking cam, with the result that the 
cam is badly worn at that point. It has been customary until recently to 
replace a badly worn cam with a new one. A device has recently been 
invented and put on the market by the Clinton Cam Company, Clinton, 
S. C, in the form of a casting to correspond with the outside of the cam 
which covers the worn part and this has removed the necessity of 
replacing the whole cam. Considerable saving has been effected by this 
because of the time saved that previously was required to replace the 
cam; also a saving in the cost of the cam. In addition to this, the adding 
of the casting to this particular point on the picking cam has made the 
cam more rigid at that point and also heavier, consequently a firmer 
blow is given to the picking cone. 

Parallel Motion. 
Fig. II, (page 22), illustrates this motion. A, picker stick. B, parallel 
or shoe. C, parallel tongue. D, parallel stand. E, plug. This is one of 



22 



Practical Loom Fixing 



the most important parts of the picking motion. The object of this motion 
is to enable the picker to travel parallel the full length of the stroke. The 
parallel stand, fastened to the rocker shaft, is level but the parallel is 
so constructed that the picker will travel parallel with the bottom of 
shuttle box. The shape of the parallel is obtained by using the picker as 
a center and the distance from picker to end of parallel as a radius. The 
parallel should be set to work full and free on the parallel stand, and 
should not work to one side or the small projection on top will soon 
be worn away or broken off with the result that the parallel will move 




Figure 11. 

about when picking and this will have a tendency to throw the shuttle 
out. The plug, which is inserted in the picking stand, must have the 
face perfectly true or this will cause the parallel to run crooked and 
shuttle will be thrown out. During picking, the parallel tongue forms a 
tapering contact with plug and guides the picker stick. Without the 
parallel motion it would be impossible to run a loom because it is abso- 
lutely necessary to have the picker travel straight in the shuttle box. If 
picker had to make an arc or a circle or in other words a curve from 
back to front end of box, the shuttle could not be driven across the lay. 
It is to dispense with this curve that the parallel motion is used. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



23 



Timing of Picking Motion. 

The shuttle should begin to move when crank is on top center. The 
motion is set on this timing because the shed is open to receive the 
shuttle, also the shuttle will have time to travel through the shed before 
shed begins to close. 

If the picking is set earlier than this the shuttle will have to force 
its way into the shed and this will chafe the yarn and break out the 
selvages. Another objection to picking before crank reaches top center 
is that ridges or furrows are made on the back of shuttle; this will also 
cause the shuttle to rattle in the box. The reason for ridges being made 
on back of shuttle is as follows. The lay on top center travels at its 
highest speed and as the crank moves toward the back center the speed 
is considerably reduced. The shuttle is therefore being delivered when 
lay is at its highest speed, but the speed of shuttle decreases as it passes 
through the shed. The speed of the lay also decreases and this allows the 
shuttle to keep close to the reed and get clear through the shed and into 
the opposite box on time. If shuttle is picked before crank reaches top 
center the lay will not have attained its highest speed and as the shuttle 
is passing across the lay there will be a tendency for the reed to leave 
the shuttle behind and in this way cause ridges at the back. 

CHAPTER IV 

Setting Lug Straps. 

These straps should be set to avoid extremes in power. To illustrate. 
A stronger pick is made by lowering the stirrup strap on pjcker stick 




Figure 12. 

or by lowering the dog on picking arm, or the arm itself. A weaker 
pick is made by raising the stirrup strap on picker stick or by raising 
the dog on picking arm, or the arm itself. The desired result is obtained 
by manipulating the dog on picking arm and stirrup strap on picker 
stick, but extremes should not be used, that is, the strongest pick on one 
and the weakest pick on the other. 

To more clearly illustrate this point Fig. 12 is given. Three different 
settings between the picking arm and picker stick are shown. A repres- 
ents the picking arm. B represents the picker stick. The connections 



24 Practical Loom Fixing 

are shown between C on picking arm and D on picker stick, the line 
representing the lug straps. At section marked I, the lug strap is at its 
lowest point on the picking arm and at its highest point on the picker 
stick. The best results will not be obtained from this. There will be 
extra power on the picking arm, but it will be lost on account of the lug 
strap being high on the picker stick. This fixing will also cause trouble 
to the fixer as the screw that holds the stirrup strap, which in turn holds 
up the lug strap, will either break or be continually coming out. Section 
marked 2 is just the opposite to the marked 1, and is probably more un- 
satisfactory, because of the power being applied at the weakest point 
first. There will also be a tendency for the lug strap to jump up on the 
picker stick. The most satisfactory setting from every standpoint is 
given in section 3. In this case the lug straps are set level with the 
medium power on both picking arm. and picker stick. It is not always 
possible to set the lug straps absolutely level but it is advisable to do so 
when possible and to conform to practical results. In any case it is much 
easier to change from a weak to a stronger pick or from a strong to a 
weaker pick. This is illustrated by the dotted line which shows that for 
a weaker pick the lug strap can be raised on picker stick, while for a 
stronger pick the lug strap can be lowered on picking arm and still not 
have that undesirable extremes of power. 

The lug straps and picking cams should be so set in relation to each 
other that there will not be too much play between the lug strap and 
the picker stick as this causes lost motion and weak picks. To illustrate. 
First, lug strap on one side of loom is set to have about three-eighths 
of an inch play between outside lug strap and picker stick. Second, 
lug strap on opposite side of loom is set to have about one inch play 
between outside lug strap and picker stick. With the pick on correct 
time the picker stick on each side will begin to move when crank is 
on top center, on their respective picks. There will be a tendency for 
more weak picks with the second setting than with the first for the 
following reasons: 

In first setting, only three-eights of an inch had to be taken up 
before lug strap came in contact with picker stick. In second setting, 
one inch had to be taken up before lug strap came in contact with picker 
stick. This means that in the first setting, the pick point on picking cam 
will be just beginning to raise the cone on picking shaft and this will 
bring the lug strap against the picker stick and the full force of the 
pick point can be used to drive the shuttle across the lay. In the second 
setting, the pick point on picking cam will have forced up the cone a 
certain distance before the lug strap is brought in contact with the 
picker stick, thus reducing the force of the blow because much of the 
initial movement has been lost. To remedy this, the lug strap will have 
to be shortened as on opposite side and the pick cam set later to corres- 
pond, taking care that the picker stick and shuttle begin to move 
when crank is on top center. 

CHAPTER V 

Setting the Pickers. 

The majority of pickers used are made of strips of leather cemented 
together. When these pickers are used it is advisable to fasten the 
strips together more securely by three fine wire nails, one at the top of 
picker and the other two at the bottom as illustrated at Fig. 13-A. By 
doing this the strips do not break apart and the pickers last longer. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



25 



The loop which holds the picker to the picker stick should be of the 
correct size so that the picker can be securely fastened to the picker 
stick. 

In setting the picker to the picker stick, the stick will have to be at 
the back end of the box. The picker when fastened to the stick should 
not come in contact with box plate at the bottom of box. When picker 
stick is at the back end of box it is not straight, but at a certain angle 
so that when fastening the picker to the picker stick, if care is not 
taken, it will press hard against the box plate. It is advisable to cut the 
picker to fit. This is illustrated at Figs. 13-B, 13-C. Fig. 13-B shows 























/ / 


c ; 




/ 1 


J-L 






1 




— . r- 








ill 










A. 




vWW\, 
B. 


MVWV 
C 



Figure 13. 

picker on picker stick with the stick straight in box. If picker is cut 
at dotted line it will fit on picker stick, as shown at Fig. 13-C. No part 
will be in contact with box plate when picker stick is at back of box. 

When picker is in correct position the shuttle should be pushed full 
in the box against the picker so that an impression will be made in 
face of picker. At this point, a small round hole should be cut. If this 
hole is not made, the shuttle is apt to strike in different places, but by 
making this hole, shuttle will strike true and be delivered better. Ex- 
cellent results are obtained if the hole is cut from one-sixteenth to one- 
eighth of an inch higher, that is the center of hole to be made that dis- 
tance higher than the impression made by the shuttle tip. Under no 
circumstances must the hole be made lower than the impression made 
by the shuttle tip or the shuttle will continually be flying out. 

It is advisable, when a new picker is being put on the picker stick, 
to notice whether the parallel is adjusted correctly or not. Sometimes 
the picker is too low when shuttle is being delivered and this will cer- 



26 Practical Loom Fixing 

tainly throw the shuttle out. When this occurs, the elevation of the 
narallel will have to be changed. On some looms, an adjusting nut is 
provided for this purpose, but where this is not provided the picker 
can be elevated at delivery by inserting a piece of leather between the 
ton of parallel tongue and picker stick, or between tongue and parallel. 
If the picker is too high at delivery, a piece of leather inserted between 
picker stick and bottom of parallel tongue will reduce the elevation. 

Saving Pickers. 
Leather pickers usually consist of strips of leather glued together A 
saving in pickers can be made by keeping all the old pieces of leather 
and picking out the best pieces. A new picker can be split in two pieces 
and an equal number of old pieces of leather cut the Same shape as 
new picker can be made. These can be glued together and three fine 
w^e nails put in the picker as indicated at A, Fig. 13. If the mill has drop 
box looms, the old rawhide pickers can be used. The picker can be 
softened so that the part through which the spindle passes can be made 
pliable This can then be flattened out and the piece cut to the same 
shape as the leather picker and nailed to the regular picker leather. A 
good method is to have a layer of leather, then a layer of rawhide with 
leather behind. In making these pickers, it is of course necessary to 
keep them the same thickness as the regular pickers. 

Setting Picker Stick. 

Three methods of setting the picker stick are illustrated at A, B, G, 
in Fig. 14. R is to represent back end of shuttle box. At A, the picker stick 
has returned almost to the back end of box. The bottom of picker 
stick is set about level with the spiral spring to which the picker stick 
is connected through the heel strap. There is a direct pull of the spring 
to the bottom of the picker stick, which makes it easy to pull the picker 
stick to the back end of the box after picking. The spring should not 
be too strong, only sufficient strength being required to pull the picker 
stick back to its original position. If the spring is too strong, the pick 
will have to be made stronger to overcome the extra resistance of the 
spring, which is a waste of power. At B, the picker stick has been 
raised from one to two inches higher than A, which allows the picker 
stick to stay in the shuttle box from two to three inches from the 
back end of box. At C, the picker stick occupies the same position as at 
A, that is, the bottom of picker stick is level with the spiral spring, but 
the heel strap has been connected between the parallel tongue and 
the picker stick. This keeps the picker stick from three to four inches 
from the back end of shuttle box. 

When the picker stick is set as at B and C, it acts as a shuttle check 
and is used for this purpose. Both these settings are used by fixers. 
The object : on to the setting at G is that the picker stick is kept too far 
into the box, 

In both cases, extra pick is required on the shuttle to drive the 
picker stick to the back end of the shuttle box, but especially is this the 
case with setting as at G. 

CHAPTER VI 

Binders. 

Fig. 15 (Page 28) illustrates various shapes of binders used on cotton 
looms. A represents what is known as a gradual tapered binder. This 
is used on drop boxes and also other boxes, and is made of malleable 
iron so that the shape can be altered to suit various circumstances, 



Practical Loom Fixing 



27 



such as different sizes of shuttles. This binder, however, is usually so 
shaped that there will be a gradual taper on same and the shuttle 
will be gradually checked as it gets into the box. Also, this binder 
should grip the shuttle about half way, or near the center of shuttle. 

The binder should not be bent to grip the shuttle near back end 
or there will be a tendency for the shuttle to be driven crooked across 
the lay. This is due to the fact that the pressure being on the back 
end of shuttle will release the shuttle too soon and the shuttle will not 
be guided straight out of the box. If shuttle is released too soon with 
this shape of binder, the dagger will rub against the frog in passing 
under it, and will also cause the loom to bang off. This can be seen 
on examination of the dagger, for the point of dagger will show the 
effect of rubbing against the frog. 

B also illustrates a gradual tapered binder on a wood base The 
adjusting nut is to allow adjustments ,to be made according to the 
width of shuttle and clearance of dagger from frog. With gradual tap- 
ered binders, gradual tapered shuttles should be used, that is, shuttles 
that taper grauuaiiy from the shuttle tip backwards and do not have 
any shoulder on back of shuttle. Such shape is shown at A and B. 




Figure 14. 

With this shape of binder and shuttle the picker stick is pulled al- 
most to the back end of the box after picking, this setting of the picker 
stick being illustrated at Fig. 14-A. It is only necessary to put a piece 



28 



Practical Loom Fixing 



of leather at the back end of box between end of box and picker stick. 
What is generally understood as a shuttle check is not used with this 
shape of binder and shuttle. When shuttle enters the box, the speed 
is gradually reduced until it gets to the back end of the box where it is 
held in position for the next pick. There is, however, a small check finger 
fastened to the protector rod, which in a way controls the binder so 
as to keep the shuttle in position when full into the box. This finger 
is fastened to the protector rod with the opposite end under the lay 
sole. When the shuttle is almost full into the box, this finger should 
be set against the lay sole and in this way the shuttle is held in position. 
Illustrated Fig. 21, Page 38. 

C, illustrates a wood binder, and when made as with full lines, 
would be known as a shoulder or blunt binder. This shape is usually 
used on the back of shuttle box with a side protector. The shape of 
shuttle used can be as full lines which represents a shouldered shuttle,, 
that is, the back of shuttle extends nearer the tips of shuttle than does 
the front of shuttle, in other words, there is a gradual taper on front of 
shuttle to the end of tip but not at the back. The shape can be also 



-o A 



3 B 



3 C 




Figure 15. 

gradually tapered, as indicated by dotted lines. Many fixers, however, 
prefer the shouldered shuttle for this binder. The dotted line on binder 
illustrates a method of using the wood binder on front of shuttle box 
and having practically a gradually tapered binder. 

D illustrates a blunt or shoulder binder, on front of box with center 
protector. This binder is made of cast iron and the uhape cannot be 
changed. A shoulder shuttle can only be used successfully with this 
binder. If the gradual tapered shuttle is used with this binder, it will 
not pass straight into the shuttle box; also, when shuttle is leaving the 
tsnuttle box the front end of shuttle will be forced away from the reed, 
and shuttle will run crooked across the lay and will also have a ten- 
dency to fly out. This is clearly illustrated in sketch. One end of 



Practical Loom Fixing 29 

shuttle is in contact with the binder, which forces back that end be- 
cause there is nothing to prevent it and this causes the other end to 
be forced out as will be seen. If, however, a shoulder shuttle had been 
used, as indicated by dotted lines, the binder could not have forced 
back the end of shuttle and it would be delivered straight from the box. 

Summarizing the above, it can be stated thus: On looms with grad- 
ual tapered binders, gradual tapered shuttles can be used. On looms 
with shoulder or blunt binders, shouldered shuttles can be used. Front 
binders, with few exceptions are generally gradually tapered. Front 
binders have the center protector; back binders have the side protector. 
On fine goods, the gradual tapered binder and shuttle is preferred. If 
the shoulder shuttle was used, it would be too hard on the selvages ends. 
Relation of Picker Stick to Binder. 

As stated previously, with gradual tapered binders, the picker stick 
returns to the back end of shuttle box after each pick. The checking of 
the shuttle after it enters the box is done by the binder and then held 
in position by the small finger fastened on protector rod and under the 
lay sole. 

With the shoulder binder, the picker stick remains in the shuttle 
box two or three inches and acts as a check on the shuttle. Fig. 14-B 
is the setting of picker stick. When this shape of binder is used, it is 
necessary to use a shuttle check, or have the shuttle box very tight. 
It is not advisable to have the shuttle box too tight as this wears out 
the shuttle and increases the supply bill. The necessity for having to 
use a shuttle check with this kind of binder is as follows: The shuttle, 
as it passes from one shuttle box to the other, travels rapidly. As the 
shuttle enters the box, it comes suddenly in contact with the shoulder 
of the binder and this sudden contact causes the protector finger to 
rebound slightly, or in other words, to release the binder for the moment, 
and shuttle shoots into the box. If the picker was at the back end of 
box under these conditions, the shuttle would rebound and it is to 
prevent this rebound and to bring the shuttle to a stop gradually, that 
the check is used. 

CHAPTER VII 

Beating Up. * 

The third principal movement in weaving is "beating up the filling." 
Fig. 16, (Page 30), A and B, illustrates this motion. The names of the 
parts are as follows: Reed cap G; reed H; lay sole K, on top of which is 
fastened a steel race plate or a wood race board; lay sword L which is 
fastened to rocker shaft M; connecting pin N which connects the crank 
arm from crank to lay. Measurement of sketches, 28 inches lay sword, 
from center of rocker shaft to connecting pin; 12 inch crank arm; crank 
3 inches radius. The figures are reduced in size proportionately. The 
sketch A illustrates the general setting of the crank and connecting pin 
in relation to each other. Sometimes the setting is as illustrated at B. 
When the lay is vertical, the reed in full against the cloth. Sometimes in 
beating up, the lay is a little forward of the vertical. Very seldom is the 
lay behind a vertical line when filling is being beaten into the cloth. 

The curved line illustrates how the connecting pin moves. The 
circle illustrates the crank making its revolution. The radius of the 
crank being 3 inches, the diameter of the circle as described by crank 
will be 6 inches. The lay, which is at the fell of the cloth, or up against 
the cloth when crank is on front center, will be pulled back 6 inches 



30 



Practical Loom Fixing 



by the crank. This distance is illustrated by connecting pin on lay, 
having moved from N to S in the curved line. When crank is on front 
center, the crank arm will be at N. X; when crank is on back center, 
the crank arm will be at S, Y. The intermediate points of connecting 
pin between N and S, show the various positions of the lay with corres- 
ponding positions of the crank. For example, with connecting pin at 
N, from M to N, the crank will be on front center. M, 0, will be position 
of connecting pin when crank is at 0. M P. will be position of connect- 
ing pin when crank is at P. M R, will be position of collecting pin when 
crank is at R. M S, will be position of connecting pin when crank is at 
Y or back center. 

Two points will be noticed. First, The distance through which the 
connecting pin travels, has been divided into four equal parts. Second, 
The distance through which the crank travels has been divided into 




Figure 16. 

irregular parts, each part being in exactly its correct position. The dis- 
tance from 0, connecting pin, to 0, crank circle, is exactly the same 
distance as from P to P, and R to R, and S to Y. From this it will be seen 
that the lay does not have a regular movement but has what is known as 
an eccentric movement. 

Connecting pin moves from N to 0, while crank moves from X to 0. 
Connecting pin moves from to P, while crank moves from to P 
and so on through the movements. The lay therefore, travels the fastest 
between points and R, and slowest between R and R, while crank is 
passing round back center. 

A comparison of A and B will show that A has more eccentricity 
than B, which will therefore give a firmer beat up to the filling. The 
eccentricity is caused by the connecting pin being higher or lower than 
the crank shaft, or the shaft being higher or lower than the connecting 
pin. In B the crank arm is in a straight line when crank is on front 



Practical Loom Fixing 31 

center. In A the crank arm is on a plane or a straight line when crank 
is on top center. "It is this relation of the connecting pin to the crank 
that causes the eccentricity. 

The eccentricity of the lay allows the shuttle time to get across the 
lay from one shutle box to the other. If a change had to be made on 
a loom from fine goods to coarse goods it would be advisable, if possible. 
to increase the eccentricity of the lay because of the firmer beat up of 
the filling which would be obtained, and the corresponding increase 
in time allowed for the shuttle to pass through the shed. 

Effect of Pick on the Eccentricity of the Lay. 

This heading is given because it is sometimes thought that the pick 
has some effect on the making of the eccentricity of the lay. This is 
not so as the pick does not have any such effect. If there is extra strong 
pick on the loom; or if the shuttle is too tight in the shutle box there 
will be a slight retard when crank is on top center, because this is the 
timing of picking motion. This retard can be felt by placing the hand 
on the lay cap but it is not in any way the cause of the eccentricity. 
This is merely poor loom fixing and should be remedied at once. 

CHAPTER VIII 

Take-Up Motion. 

When the number of picks per inch in cloth has to be changed, the 
only thing to be done is to put a new change or pick gear on the take-up 
motion, hence calculations for this motion are seldom made. There are 
one or two little points about this motion that are not as clearly under- 
stood as they ought to be. For the purpose of making these points 
clear we will divide the take-up motions as follows: 

1. When motion is driven from bottom shaft and one tooth in 
change gear is equal to two picks put in the cloth. 

2. When motion is driven from crank shaft or lay sword and one 
tooth in change gear is equal to one pick put in cloth. 

3. When motion is driven from bottom shaft and calculation has to 
be made for change gear. 

Fig. 17 illustrates a train of gears driven from the bottom shaft in 
loom. One tooth in change gear will be equal to two picks in cloth. 
A is the ratchet gear of 100 teeth; B, take-up gear of 17 teeth on same 
stud. This gear meshes directly into change gear C, of 24 teeth, which 
is on the sleeve of pick sleeve gear D, with 21 teeth. This gear trans- 
mits motion to the cloth room gear E of 50 teeth. The circumference 
of tin roller is 14% inches. 

In take up calculations, the circumference of tin roll must always 
be taken into consideration and not the diameter of roll. The driven 
gears are multiplied together for a dividend and the drivers together 
with the circumference of the tin roll for a divisor. Result of driven 
gears divided by result of drivers will give a number, which multiplied 
by 2 will give the picks per inch. 

The multiplier 2 is used because the motion is driven from bottom 
shaft and one tooth in change gear is equal to two picks. 

100X24X50 

=23.58X2=47.16. 

17X21X14.25 

The change gear it will be noticed, is 24 teeth, so that there will 
be 48 picks per inch in cloth. Now the calculation only shows 47.16 
picks per inch, but as 'there is always a certain amount of slipping 



32 Practical Loom Fixing 

of cloth and contraction after cloth is taken off the loom and as this is 
variously estimated at from 1% to 2 per cent, the picks will be right 
for the change gear. 

In all take-up motion calculations, the ratchet gear is a driven gear 
and the circumferences of tin roll is considered as a driver. 

Somewhat the same arrangement of gears is used when the motion 
is driven from crank shaft or lay sword as given in 2. In this case the 
change gear is generally the ratchet gear. The following gears are used 
on one of these motions. Ratchet gear (change) 46 teeth, take-up gear 
12 teeth, gear fixed on sleeve gear 35 teeth, sleeve gear 12 teeth, cloth 



100 



0\ 



So 



n 



□ 



B \+±"ClR. 



Figure 17. 

roll gear 60 teeth, circumference of tin roll 13 3-8 inches. 
46X34X60 

=45.66. 

12X12X14.375 

The take-up gear has 46 teeth, for that number of picks per inch 



Practical Loom Fixing 33 

in cloth. The calculation allows a little under that but when allowance 
is made for slippage and contraction of cloth from loom there will be 
46 picks per inch in cloth. 

Fig. 18 illustrates the train of gears when motion is imparted as 
stated at 3. These gears require a calculation to show the number of 




Figure 18. 

picks per inch put in the cloth as the change gear does not indicate 
the number of picks per inch. To save time, a list of gears should be 
made showing the number of picks each gear will give. Sometimes the 
calculation is made by proportion, using the gear on loom with the 
picks in cloth and ascertaining what gear will be required for another 
number of picks. This however, is not very satisfactory, because it is 
not always possible to get the exact change gear. 

With the train of gears in illustration, what change gear can be 
used for 64 picks per inch? In this calculation the picks per inch are 



34 Practical Loom Fixing 

substituted for change gear. The answer is multiplied by 2, because 
the motion is driven from bottom shaft. 
110X68 

=9.542X2=19 change gear. 

64X12X12.25 

Influence of Tin Roll on Picks Per Inch. 

The size of tin roll has a decided influence on the number of picks 
per inch. Any variation in the size of roll will have a corresponding 
variation in the picks per inch. This is a point that should be carefully 
watched, especially when old tin rolls have to be re-covered. In re- 
covering tin rolls, the old perforated tin should always be taken off 
before putting on the new tin. If this is not done ,the new tin covering 
being put over the old, will increase the diameter of the roll and this 
will cause the cloth to be pulled down faster, with the result that a less 
number of picks will be put in cloth than is called for by the change 
gear. 

If the circumference of tin roll is increased in any other way, the 
change gear and the picks per inch in cloth will not correspond. When 
sand rolls are used, and at one time they were more in use than at 
present, the surface would gradually rub ana wear off. When re-cover- 
ing with this "sand," which is a combination of grit, small patricles of 
glass, etc., the circumference will be made too large if care is not taken 
when doing the work. 

When re-covering an old sand roll with perforated tin, all the old 
sand must be cleaned off the roll otherwise an uneven surface will be 
left and this will show clearly in cloth by making it uneven. 

Perforated tin is now used almost exclusively for cotton goods, but 
on the finer grades of goods extreme care is required in selection of thi^ 
so as not to damage the cloth when winding on ihe cloth roll. 
Setting Take-Up Pawl. 

On plain goods the take-up pawl should be set to turn the ratchet 
gear when the harness are level. At this point the yarn and cloth has 
the least strain on them. The most strain is on the yarn when harness 
shafts are wide open and if the take-up motion operates at this tim« 
an additional strain is put on the yarn. 

CHAPTER IX 

Gear Let-Off Motion. 

^ig. 19 illustrates a gear let-off motion. This motion is used exten- 
sively on plain looms. The motion is controlled by 'he vibration of whip 
roll and the connecting rod from lay sword. There are different makes 
of gear let-off motions, but all have the same governing principles. The 
parts of the motion given are as follows: A clutch lever A connects a 
spring rod B to the whip roll. On the spring rod are two springs, ;i 
long one and a short one. An upright lever C works on a stud fixed to 
the side of the loom. The top of the lever is on the short end of the 
spring rod and is held between the spring and the collar. To the bottom 
of the lever is fastened a round iron rod D that is connected to the pawi 
lever E at F, the connection being shown in small sketch in corner. The 
connection F is directly behind the vertical shaft G, on which the pawi 
lever moves. On the end of pawl lever a small pawl H is fixed and this 
pawl turns the ratchet J. A small spring keeps the pawl in contact with 
the ratchet. The vertical shaft G carries a worm K which, when the 
shaft revolves turns the worm gear L. This worm gear is fastened to a 
small shaft which carries on its opposite end a small pinion gear and ihis 



Practical Loom Fixing 



35 



pinion gear being meshed with gear on loom beam flange transmits motion 
to the loom beam. The rod M is connected to the lay sword which works 
free through collar set screwed on pawl lever rod D. 

Setting the Motion. 
Have the whip roll set a little higher than the harness eyes, with 
clutch lever A as near vertical as possible. The large spring on spring 
rod B should have sufficient pressure on it to keep the yarn tight. The 
pressure on this spring will be determined by the amount of yarn on 
beam. The small spring should not be too close or tight and is governed 
by the strength of the top spring. This small spring counterbalances 
the oscillation of the whip roll and the rebound of the top spring. When 
the harness shafts are level, the upright lever C should be vertical and 
the pawl should be on the outside of the ratchet as shown in large 
sketch. When the harness are opening the whip roll is forced down 
and through the spring rod B a slight forward movement is given the 




B 



f 



\W/////AOVW/, j//,'V ^^^ 



'///////////, 



-c 



o 



/n 



Figure 19. 

upright lever C. This causes the pawl H to pass over the required num- 
ber of teeth on the ratchet gear and also brings the collar on pawl lever 
rod almost in contact with the small collar on rod M, which is con- 
nected to lay sword. In beating up, the rod M will pull the pawl lever 
rod D forward and the ratchet will be turned. The small collar on rod 
M can be set to come in contact with collar on pawl lever rod D according 
to requirements, but a good setting is to have the reed about one inch 
from the fell of cloth with collars in contact with each other. 
Every part of the motion must work freely. If there is any binding in 



36 Practical Loom Fixing 

any part of the motion uneven cloth will almost certainly result. When 
thin cloths are being made, there should not be too much motion of the 
whip roll as the extreme movement is likely to cause thin places in 
the cloth. When a full warp is put in the loom the long spring on spring 
rod is tightened by moving the collar. This reduces the vibration of 
whip roll and in turn reduces the number of teeth passed over by the 
pawl on the ratchet gear. This reduces the speed of the loom beam in 
letting off the yarn but not the amount of yarn let off because of the 
circumference of the yarn on the beam. As the yarn is woven off the 
loom beam, the circumference of the yarn on beam is reduced.therefore 
the loom beam has to travel faster to let off the amount of yarn taken 
up in weaving. The tension on the large spring must be reduced per- 
iodically so as to maintain the full width of the goods in the loom. If 
this is not done the cloth will be pulled out too long and will be too 
narrow. 

Friction Let Off. 

The commonest friction let off is a rope passed around the drum 
of the beam head and attached to a weight lever under the loom beam. 
Sufficient weight is required on the lever to keep the yarn tight. As the 
beam is reduced in size, some of the weight is taken off. In damp weather, 
when rope is used it becomes sticky and the yarn is not let off evenlv. 
When this occurs, the rope and beam head should be cleaned thoroughly, 
and black lead or powdered graphite should be applied in small quantity 
and this will allow the beam yarn to be let off evenly. Sometimes French 
chalk or Talc powder is used but this is not as good as black lead. 

The rope should be kept clean at all times and oil should not be 
allowed to drop on either the rope or beam head as this will soon make 
the rope sticky and cause uneven cloth to be made. The best results 
from the rope friction seems to be obtained when a hemp rope is used 
as it is less likely to become sticky. 

Many mills are using chains for friction instead of rope. These chains 
are not affected by changes in atmospheric conditions, that is, if the 
room should be damp owing to a change from dry to damp weather, or an 
extra amount of moisture being put in the room, there will not be any 
visible effect on the chain let off. This is an advantage over the rope 
let off. These chains, however, require great care or the beam head will 
soon become grooved. 

CHAPTEE X 

Filling Stop Motion. 

This motion is illustrated in Fig. 20 and is an alternate stop motion, 
that is, the fork is raised out of the way of the elbow lever on every 
second pick. The purpose of the motion is to stop the loom when filling 
runs out or is broken and in order to operate successfully, the various 
parts must be set and adjusted correctly. A stop motion cam A is 
setscrewed on the pick cam shaft in the loom. This cam is made in 
different shapes, an eccentric cam often being used. The elbow lever 
B, is of two parts, one extending over the cam and the other end extend- 
ing upwards under the filling fork. G is the filling fork, D the grate 
which is in line with the reed and back of box. At right hand side of 
illustration a fork and fork slide is shown. 

When the loom is running, the filling is carried by the shuttle 
directly in front of the grate and between the grate and the fork. As 



Practical Loom Fixing 



37 



the lay comes forward, the filling will raise the fork out of the way of 
the elbow lever and loom will continue to run. When filling is broken 
the fork passes through the grate, and the elbow lever, in moving out- 
wards comes in contact with the catch on end of fork. This forces back 
the filling fork slide and at the same time forces back the shipper 
handle and loom is stopped. 

Setting the Fork. 

In setting the fork, care must be taken that the prongs of the fork 
pass clear into or through the grate and must not come in contact 
at all with the grate but must work clear so that when filling breaks, 
the catch on the fork will remain over the elbow lever. Excessive move- 
ment of the fork should be avoided and the fork should be set so as not 
to pass too far through the grate as this not only gives excessive move- 
ment but causes strain on the filling. The prongs of the fork should not 
be too long, or when fork is raised the bottom of the prongs will come in 
contact with the lay sole and this often causes loom to stop. 

Shape of Fork. 

The prongs of the fork can be made any desired shape. These shapes 
are given in Fig. 20 at E, F and G. The shape given at E and F are two 
of the best that can be used. E has the straight prong, F the slightly 
concave prong. The filling is subjected to the smallest possible amount 
of strain and it is not necessary to have them pass very far through the 




Figure 20. 

grate in order to raise the catch on end of fork the required distance 
out of the way of the elbow lever. The shape at G is not very desirable 
and is not as easily regulated as the other shapes. The filling is more 
likely to slip on the fork and more pressure is required to raise the 
catch on the end of fork the required distance. In all cases the prongs 



38 



Practical Loom Fixing 



of the fork should be of sufficient length to reach below the level of 
race plate and into groove that is cut into the lay sole at the required 
point. 

Timing of Stop Motion. 

Have shuttle in box at stop motion side with crank in front center 
or just a trifle past front center. Push fork slide as far forward as it 
will go. At this point, the stop motion cam should be set to raise the 
elbow lever so that the end will be just passing under the catch on 
fork. 

Thin Place Preventor. 

On almost all cotton looms there is a thin place preventor. These are 
constructed differently but the object is the same on all, namely, to raise 
the catch on take-up gears when filling breaks which prevents the gears 
from drawing down the cloth for those picks where no filling is inserted. 
On looms with tight and loose pulleys the thin place preventor is of much 
value as the lay usually turns over for two, three or four picks before 
coming to a stop. On these picks the ratchet gear on take-up motion is 
kept from being turned and the cloth is not pulled down. The loom 
can generally be started up without turning back the take-up gears if 
the preventor motion is working correctly. Often, the passing of the 
hand across the cloth before starting up the loom is sufficient to prevent 
a thin place. The motion is operated in all cases from the filling fork 
slide so that as this slide is pulled back when filling is broken, the 
motion operates. 

Protector Motion. 

There are two kinds of protector motions on looms, namely, center 
protector and side protector. The purpose of the protector motion is 
to prevent smashes. If the shuttle should not get into the shuttle box 
the loom will bang off and if shuttle is in the shed a smash will be 
prevented. 




Figure 21. 

Fig. 21 illustrates a center protector. The center protector has only 
one dagger which is in the center of protector rod. The binder in 
shuttle box is always on the front of box. In illustration, A represents 
shuttle boxes; B, the binders; C, protector fingers; D, protector rod; E, 
dagger; F, spiral spring on protector rod; G, check finger; H, the frog 



Practical Loom Fixing 



39 



cr receiver. The frog is held under breast beam, one end being behind 
the shipper handle. 

The spring on protector rod is to keep the protector fingers in con- 
tact with the binders. The spring should not be too tight, only sufficient 
tension being required to keep the protector fingers in position. The 
spring, however, is sometimes used as a means of checking the shuttle 
but it is' not advisable to do this. When the shuttle is in the box, the 
binder is forced out and in turn forces out the protector finger and the 
dagger on protector rod passes under the frog or receiver. When shuttle 
is not in the box, the dagger strikes the frog and knocks off the shipper 
handle, stopping the loom. 

The small sketch on right hand side shows the check finger in con- 
tact with the bottom of lay sole. This check finger is only used on 
front binders and which are generally gradual tapered. The setting of 
this finger is to have the shuttle almost full into the box with the 
binder and protector finger pushed out almost as far as they will go and 
at that point the end of finger should be set against the bottom of lay 
sole. This will check and hold the shuttle in the box. The check finger 
must not be set to hold the shuttle too tight in the box but just enough 
to keep the shuttle in place and also to prevent rebounding of shuttle in 
box. If the finger is set to hold the shuttle too tight, more power will 
be required to drive the shuttle; the shuttle will also wear out sooner. 
By the use of the check finger, the picker stick can be set to the back 
of box after picking. 




Figure 22. 

Fig. 22 illustrates the side protector. A side protector is always 
operated from a back binder. The finger shows the protector motion on 
shipper handle side and the connection of frog with brake. The frog 
A has the knock-off finger B fastened to it and which is directly behind 
the shipper handle C. D is the dagger which is attached to the protector 



40 Practical Loom Fixing 

rod; E being the protector finger fastened to protector rod. The pro- 
tector rod is suspended in small bearings under the lay sole. When 
the dagger comes in contact with the steel receiver F in the frog, the 
shipper handle is knocked out of position, the belt is pushed on the 
loose pulley, and the brake G is pulled in contact with the wheel on tight 
pulley H, thus stopping the loom. 

With this protector motion, two frogs are generally used. The one 
operating on shipper handle side is an active or live frog, the one on 
opposite side of loom is an inactive frog or as is often called a blind 
frog. These two frogs are exactly the same but the inactive frog merely 
receives part of the strain when loom bangs off. The daggers are set so 
that the one on shipper handle side will come in contact with the frog 
before the dagger on the opposite side. If these conditions should be 
reversed, that is, if the dagger on inactive frog should be in contact with 
frog before the active dagger, a smash will certainly result, sooner or 
teter. 

Setting Protector Fingers. 

The protector fingers which are fastened to the protector rod must 
be set so that when shuttle is in the box the dagger will clear the frog. 
Also, when shuttle is not in the box, the fingers should be set so that 
the dagger will strike squarely in the frog. If the dagger strikes too 
nigh, the binder has to be set closer in the box so as to have the dagger 
move a greater distance, thus requiring more power as well as putting 
increased pressure on the shuttle. 

The frog should be placed in the position it will be when loom is 
running. The dagger should be full into the groove in frog. At this 
position, the protector fingers should be set full against the binders. In 
setting, care must be taken not to have any lost motion between finger 
and binder, also that the dagger strikes full into the frog. 

CHAPTER XI 

Cover or Face on Cloth. 

The subject of cover or face on cloth is one that should have full 
attention given to it. Judging from the way much of the plain cloth is 
woven, it would appear as though face on goods is of very little value. 
Cover or face is of value and fabrics possessing this feature, which costs 
practically nothing to put on, is very often the deciding factor in many 
sales. Not only is this feature the deciding factor in making the sale, 
but a better price is often paid for the goods. 

There are three requisites for putting face on cloth. First, setting of 
whip roll. Second, soft twisted filling. Third, timing of shedding cams. 
First. The setting of whip roll is one of the first details which must 
be attended to. It is suprising how often this little thing is neglected. 
What ought to be done in every mill on the same class of goods, whether 
goods have to be covered or not, is to have one position of the whip 
roll. When the correct position has been found for either reedy or 
covered cloth, the whip roll on all looms should be set the same and 
the result will be uniform in every piece produced. 

Setting For Reedy Cloth or Without Cover. 

Fig. 23 illustrates the setting of whip roll and harness to produce cloth 
in loom without any face or cover on it. With the harness level, that is, 
crossing each other, the warp yarn forms a straight line from the whip 
roll A to the breast beam B. Fig. 24 illustrates the harness shafts open, 
the dotted line representing the warp line as in Fig. 23. 



Practical Loom Fixing 41 

It will be noticed that there is an even tension on the yarn both at 
the top and bottom. As the ends in a plain cloth are drawn through the 
reed two in a dent, every two ends will be worked together as a unit, 
and the reed wire separating every two ends and beating the filling into 
the cloth will keep each two ends together and leave an empty space 
between. Each two ends being opened and held together at even tension 
must of necessity run together. The warp and filling is divided evenly 
en the face and back of cloth. 

Setting For Covered Cloth. 

Fig. 25 illustrates the position of whip roll to put face or cover on 
cloth. It will be noticed that tb.3 only change that has been made be- 










- 




-^HTl 



Fig. 28 



Fig. 24 



tween Fig. 23 and Fig. 25 is that the whip roll A is set higher in Fig. 25 
than in Fig. 23. This, however, is one of the vital points in putting face on 
^oods. Fig. 26 illustrates the harness shafts open with this setting, 
the dotted line illustrating the warp line as in Fig. 24. The harness 
shafts have been raised and lowered the same distance as in Fig. 24, 
hut it will be noticed in this Fig. that the bottom of the warp is much 
tighter than the top half. This is because the line that is formed by 



m 











( 


2) • 




■^ B$ 





Fig. 25. 



Fig. 26 



the warp drawn through the raised harness shaft is not as high above 
the warp line as the warp drawn through the lowered harness is below 
the warp line. In other words, when a harness shaft is raised, the yarn 
that is drawn through that shaft does not have the same tension on it 



42 Practical Loom Fixing 

that the yarn does that passes through the harness shaft that is lowered. 
The effect of this on the yarn and cloth is as follows: When the harness 
shafts are open and the reed is beating the filling into the cloth, the 
ends in the top part of the shed will be looser than the ends in the 
bottom part, consequently the loose ends will spread out and in between 
the tight ends and the marks of the reed will not be seen. 

Also, remembering that the bottom half of the warp is tighter than 
the upper half, the filling will be forced on the face of the cloth and it is 
the filling that makes the "face" on cloth. In some cases, the cloth is 
raised at the breast beam by placing a strip of wood either on top of 
breast beam or in front and allowing the end of wood to extend over the 
top of breast beam. When this is done, the warp line will be higher 
both at the breast beam and whip roll than at the harness shafts when 
shafts are level. Care must be taken that the cloth is not raised too 
high or the ends of the upper half of the shed will be too loose. This 
will also occur if the whip roll is too high. 

Second. To obtain the best face or cover, the filling should be soft 
twisted. It will readily be seen that the softer and more loosely twisted 
filling that can be used, the better will be the face or cover since the 
filling is forced on the face of cloth and it is the filling that gives the 
cover. 

Third. The timing of shedding cams has a decided influence on the 
face of cloth. There are three different timings of cams, namely, late, 
medium, early. Each setting is suitable for special kinds of cloth, but 
when considering the regular plain sheeting and prints, the medium or 
early timing should be used. The medium timing of motion is to have 
crank between bottom and front center with the harness shafts level. 
Early timing of motion is to have crank on bottom center with the 
harness shafts level. 

With the early timing, the shuttle will have passed through the shed 
and laid in the pick of filling, the harness shafts will have crossed the 
picks and be almost full open when the reed is beating the filling into 
the cloth. With the whip roll set at Fig. 26 the filling will be forced 
on the face of cloth because the bottom half of the warp is tighter than 
the upper half and also because the ends, being opened, will allow the 
filling to be beaten into the cloth easier. 

Many fixers time the position of the shedding cams by the distance 
of reed from fell of cloth with the harness shafts level. A medium 
timing of motion will be when reed is about one inch from fell of cloth 
with harness shafts level; an early timing of motion will be when reed 
is about two inches from fell of cloth. 

Cost of Adding "Face" or Cover to Cloth. 

It has been previously stated that it costs practically nothing to add 
face to cloth as the following shows: 

First. It costs nothing to raise the whip roll for the fixer can do 
this in his regular work. When the correct position has been ascer- 
tained, a measuring stick can be made and all the whip rolls set to this 
standard. As the raising of whip roll puts additional strain on the 
bottom part of the shed, the yarn will have to be carefully sized so as to 
retain all its strength, but this can be done by a judicious mixing of 
sizing ingredients. The whip roll must not be set too high or the yarn 
at the bottom part of the shed will have too much tension on it and the 
ends will be liable to break. Also, the yarn at the top part of the shed 
will be too loose and this will have a tendency to throw out the shuttle. 



Practical Loom Fixing 43 

Care is therefore required in getting the correct position for the 
whip roll. Sufficient face or cover can generally be put on cloth by 
adjusting the whip roll, though occasionally a strip of wood has to be 
added to the breast beam. This will be added expense but the results 
obtained will more than compensate for this. 

Second. The making of soft twisted filling will probably cost a little 
more because of the extra breaking of the ends on the spinning frame. 
These breakages should not be too many unless the filling is extra soft 
twisted, in which case there will be more ends down on the spinning 
frame and more stoppages on the loom than there will be when the 
regular filling is used. 

The regular filling twist is usually correct and an excellent face 
or cover can be obtained when other things are in proportion. 

Third. It certainly does not cost anything to set the shedding cams 
early in preference to setting them late. 

Summary. 

To sum up in a concise form the following points are given which, 
if followed, will certainly give good results. 

For Cloth Without Face or Cover. 

Have harness shafts level. Crank between bottom and front center. 
Set whip roll so that "warp line" will be in a straight line from whip 
roll to breast beam. 

For Cloth With Face or Cover. 

Have harness shaft level. Crank on bottom center. Set whip roll 
so that "warp line" will be above a straight line from whip roll to breast 
beam, the line being lower at the harness shafts. In other words, raise 
the whip roll. In some special cases put a strip of wood on the breast 
beam. 

CHAPTER XII 

Temples. 

Temples are for the purpose of keeping the fell of cloth as wide 
as the yarn in the reed. If temples were not used, the selvages would 
not weave. Fig. 27 illustrates a left hand temple with plate. This is 
a single roll temple, some temples having double rolls. Temples are 
made for all kinds of work, both fine and coarse and in different widths 
to suit the cloth being made. 

The rolls should always work freely, if they do not, the pins in the 
roll will make small holes in the cloth if fine cloth is being made. The 
pins will also pluck the filling and make a poor looking cloth. The rolls 
should be kept clean as ends frequently wrap around them. This keeps 
The pins from holding the cloth out firmly and allowing it to slip. Waste 
also accumulates at the ends of the roll and this keeps the roll from 
turning. It is often necessary to take out the rolls to clean and oil and 
in replacing same, care is necessary. 

On some fine goods, the finest pins used in rolls will sometimes make 
temple marks. To remedy this, the rolls should be covered with fine 
tissue paper until only the points of pins show through the paper and 
this is enough to hold the cloth the full width. Sometimes filling is 
wound round the roll but this is not as good as tissue paper. Rough 
and bent pins cause temple marks, plucking of filling in cloth as it passes 
through the temple; and holes are often made in cloth by these defective 
pins. 



44 



Practical Loom Fixing 



Setting the Temple. 

The plate of temple should be fixed securely to the breast beam. 
Che trough of the temple should be just high enough for the lay sole to 
pass under. The selvage of cloth should be full into the temple. When 
the reed is about one-eighth of an inch from the fell of cloth the lay 
sole should be in contact with the heel plate on temple. 

Fig. 28 illustrates the lay almost in contact with the heel plate of 
temple A. With the heel plate set so as to have the lay sole come in 
contact at this point, a slight forward movement is given to the temple. 
This releases the selvage at this point and the strain on them is slightly 
reduced. There should not be too much movement of the temple. 

Lease Rods. 

These rods are for the purpose of separating the yarn and obtaining, 
as the name indicates, a "lease." This use of lease rods enables the 
weaver to readily find the place if an end should be broken; the ends can 




Figure 27. 

also be kept straight, which is of great service, especially when colored 
yarns are used. A clearer "shed" is obtained by the use of them and 
they also keep the ends from becoming tangled. A soft wood, with sur- 
face insufficiently protected, should not be used as the continued draw- 
ing of the ends over the rods soon cuts little ridges or furrows in them. 
This is a source of constant trouble and expense as the ends getting in 
ihe ridges are continually breaking out, especially on fine yarns. Such 
rods have then to be sandpapered frequently so as to keep them smooth. 
To overcome this difficulty, a lease rod made from either basswood 



Practical Loom Fixing 45 

or white birch, thoroughly seasoned and kiln-dried, then enameled with 
a spe^al enamel designed and made for this purpose, and the enamel 
carbonized and thoroughly baked on the rods for successive coats under 
high heat for hours, produces a hard, glazed surface, over which the 
ends runs as smoothly as over glass. So made they wear for many years 
Lease rods are of different shapes and sizes. The largest rod, which 
is a round one, is always inserted in the yarn first, and is the back rod. 
The back harness is raised and the front harness lowered when the rod 
is inserted in the yarn. When the front rod, which is oval, is inserted, 
the front harness is raised and the back harness lowered. The reason 
for inserting the rods in warp in this order is as follows:: When the 
back harness is lowered and the front harness raised the shed is formed 




Figure 28. 

at a point between the rods and the fell of cloth. The added thickness 
of the back rod is sufficient to put the necessary tension on the yarn to 
make a clear shed because the front harness is near the fell of cloth. 
When the front harness is lowered and the back harness raised, the 
shed is formed from the front rod and the fell of cloth. The back har- 
ness has to travel a greater distance than the front harness to make 
me same size of shed for the shuttle to pass through because it is farther 
away from the fell of the cloth, therefore more tension is required 
on the ends drawn through that harness so as to make a clear shed. 
This additional tension is obtained by having the ends under the front 
lease rod which is sufficient to equalize the distance between the harness 
and fell of cloth. A small oval rod is therefore necessary for front rod 
as the larger the rod the farther the yarn has to bend. 

Shuttles. 
On single box work the usual custom is to have two shuttles to 
one loom so that when one is at work the other is threaded up ready for 
use. When more than one shuttle is used on the same loom they should 
all be the same size, shape and weight. The shuttle box is set for one 
size of shuttle and there should not be any variation in size otherwise 
there will be more or less trouble with loom banging. The weight of 



MM 



46 



Practical Loom Fixing 



shuttles should be as near the same as it is possible to get them. The 
shape of shuttle should be the same on all shuttles used. With a gradual 
tapered binder, the best shape of shuttle to use is one that is tapered 
io the shuttle tip, with the tip in center of shuttle. A shoulder shuttle 
should only be used with a shoulder or blunt binder and the shoulder on 
snuttle should not be too deep. 

More and better production can be obtained from the loom by the 
use of a correctly designed shuttle. The shuttles should be made of 
the best material and perfectly constructed. With poor material the 
shuttles soon become ridgy on the back, splinter and soon wear out. The 
result is a loss in production caused by ends breaking out, smashes, etc. 

Care of shuttles is an important part of weaving, especially on fine 
goods. Shuttles are, however, very often neglected with the result that 
ends are continually breaking out. All rough places should be made 
smooth by being sandpapered and all sharp edges should be eliminated. 

Shuttles should be handled carefully and should not be dropped 
on the floor. This causes the tips to be blunted and flattened. It is im- 
possible to have good weaving when the shuttle tips are flat or blunted. 
When the tips are in this condition any loose ends are caught by the 
tip and broken out. The tip strikes the loose ends, breaking them and 
carrying them through the shed. The blunted tip can readily be de- 
tected when this occurs because the broken ends are carried in the 
direction this tip is traveling. 

All blunt tips should be sharpened. They should be perfectly 
round and to a sharp point, for only in this way can the best results 
be obtained. In sharpening care should be taken so as not to have the 
shuttle tip flat as this will cut out the ends. 

CHAPTEE XIII 

Auxiliary Shaft For Twill Goods. 

When a mill is equipped for weaving plain goods only, the shedding 
cams are put on the pick cam shaft. If it is intended to also weave twill 
or sateen goods on these looms a small auxiliary shaft is added to the 
loom. This shaft is driven from the pick cam shaft at varying speeds 
according to the twill that is being made on the loom. ■ If a three harness 

drill is being made the aux- 
iliary shaft has to be driv- 
en so that one revolution of 
the shaft will be eaual to 
three picks, or if a four- 
harness drill is being made, 
one revolution will be equal 
to four picks. Fig. 29 shows 
the connection between the 
pick cam shaft and the aux- 
iliary shaft. A, represents 
crank shaft. B, represents 
pick cam shaft. Different 
sizes of these gears are put 
on the shaft as will be seen 
and the meshing of either 
of these gears will drive the 
auxilliary shaft at a differ- 
ent speed, according to the 
Fiflure 29. number of cams being used. 



jyTtaTn. 



7oTs£T«. 





" 


* 




-3 


o 


to 





Finn 



U 



Aw.*- 



TTO- 



C*HS. 



3 



JfcLO Teeth 



Practical Loom Fixing 47 

A fixed gear is usually set on the auxilliary shaft. When plain goods have 
to be made the gear on pick cam shaft will have to be the same size 
as the gear on auxilliary shaft, since auxilliary shaft has to travel the 
same speed as the pick cam shaft, namely, one revolution of the auxilliary 
shaft to two revolutions of crank shaft. 

Example to Find Gear Required. 

A loom has to be changed over from plain cloth to four-harness twill. 
Gears on loom as follows: On end of crank shaft 35 teeth; on end of 
pick cam shaft 70 teeth; on auxiliary shaft 60 teeth. What size gear 
required to drive auxiliary shaft? Rule: Multiply driven gears together 
for a dividend. Multiply driver gears by twill required for a divisor. 
Divide one by the other and the answer will be gear required. 

70X60 

=30 tooth gear required. 

35X4 

By substituting in rule the gear on pick cam shaft that is meshed in 
gear on auxiliary shaft, the number of picks in one revolution of auxil- 
iary shaft will be found. 

Example: Gear on end of crank shaft 35 teeth; on end of pick 
cam shaft 70 teeth; on pick cam shaft driving auxiliary shaft 40 teeth; 
on auxiliary shaft 60 teeth. How many picks in one revolution of auxil- 
iary shaft? 

70X60 

=3 picks, or cams for three harness drill. 

35X40 

Changes Required. 

When changing over from plain goods to twills or sateens several 
changes have to be made. These are as follows: New harness rolls; 
additional treadles; additional jack sticks and straps; gear to drive auxil- 
iary shaft. If a vibrating whip roll had been used for plain goods, it 
would be advisable to reduce the vibration for the following reason: 
The vibrating whip roll is used to relieve the strain on the yarn when 
the harness are open, for at this point the greatest strain is on the yarn. 
This vibrating whip roll is therefore, more desirable for plain goods than 
for twills or sateens because one-half the yarn in plain cloth is raised 
and the other half lowered at the same time. In twills and sateens some 
harness are changing while others are stationary so that the vibrating 
whip roll is not of as great value as on plain cloth. 

Timing of Twill or Sateen Cams. 

When two harness shafts are being changed, that is, one raised 
and one lowered, the crank shaft should be just past bottom center when 
they are level or just passing each other. The timing of this motion can 
often very easily be changed as an intermediate or carrier gear is used 
to transmit motion from the gear on pick cam shaft to gear on auxiliary 
shaft. By moving this carrier gear out of position, the cams can be set 
at any desired point in relation to crank shaft. 

Roll and Spring Top. 

Twills and sateens are usually made on either roll or spring top. 
Fig. 30 illustrates roll top for three and four harness; als"> a spring top 



48 



Practical Loom Fixing 



similar to that 
which is used on 
the Draper loom. 
The rolls shown in 
illustration are di- 
rectly over the har- 
ness th o u g h on 
many looms these 
rolls are on one 
side of the loom, 
arch. The principle 
of operation is the 
same whether the 
rolls are directly 
above or to one 
side of the loom. 
These rolls require 
careful adjustment 
or the straps will 
lap under and this 
causes the harness 
to jump. 

With the spring 
top this trouble is 
entirely a voi d e d 
and it is an ex- 
cellent motion. If 
the treadles are set 
correctly to the 
shedding cams 
and are in contact I 
with the cams for 




Figure 30. 



the whole of the revolution, there is no difficulty whatever with this 
motion and good results are obtained. In all cases, whether rolls or 
spring tops, there must be correct setting of the harness and treadle balls, 
otherwise the harness will not receive the easy movement that is neces- 
sary for good weaving. 



CHAPTER XIV 

LOOM FIXING POINTS. 

Under different heads the various causes of loom being out of order 
will be given, together with remedies for same. A loom fixer's duty is 
to keep the looms under his charge in good repair so as to produce the 
maximum production of first quality goods. 

LOOM BANGING OR SLAMMING. 

This is what a loom fixer is called for in a large number of cases. 
There are quite a number of causes for this, which will be enumerated. 

Late Pick 

This is generally caused by lug straps slipping. The straps should 
be closed in so that the pick will start on time. The correct timing of 
picking motion is to have shuttle begin to move when crank is on top 
center. Late pick is sometimes caused by pick cam slipping. The cam 
will have to be reset on time. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



49 



Weak Pick. 

When the picking motion is on time and the shuttle is not picked 
hard enough so as to get in shuttle box on opposite side in time, the 
pick has to be made stronger. This can be done in two ways. First, by 
lowering lug strap on picker stick. Second, by lowering driving arm, 
or dog on driving arm. Either of these methods can be used, but care 
should be taken so as not to have the lug straps at extremes. See 
Chapter Four. 

Cracked or Part Broken Lug Strap. 

When the lug strap is cracked or part broken, much of the force of 
the blow is lost causing a weak pick. This should be replaced with a 
new strap. 

Cracked Picker Stick. 

A weak pick is often made with a cracked picker stick. It is best to 
replace such a picker stick with a new one as soon as possible. One 
cause of picker stick cracking is by having the shuttle held too hard in 
the shuttle box, so that when beginning to pick, the picker stick is 
bent and when this occurs, neither the picker stick or shuttle lasts long. 
The shuttle should not be held too tight in the box, only sufficient to 
have the dagger clear the frog, and also to keep it from rebounding. 
Fig. 31 illustrates by 
dotted, lines,, how. aj 
picker stick is bent J 
when shuttle is held 
too tight in shuttle 
box. 

Picker sticks are 
cracked and broken 
when the stick strikes 
too hard against the 
front end of the box. 
A buffer should al- 
ways be used to pro- 
tect both the picker 
and the picker stick. 
This buffer is some- 
times made of leather; 
also of cloth wound 
tightly in a roll and 
put in the front end 
of race. The picker 
striking the buffer in- 
stead of the solid end 
of the race increases 
the life of the picker 
stick and also the 
picker, because the 
hard blow on picker 
and picker stick is re- 
duced. Picker sticks 
should be made from 
hickory, cut straight 
with the grain. Poor 
quality picker sticks 
will more easily bend 
as shown in illustration. Figure 31. 




50 Practical Loom Fixing 

Rebounding Shuttle. 

A rebounding shuttle is one that strikes hard against the picker 
and rebounds back in the box. Some looms, with the slightest rebound 
will bang off, while others will continue to run. This depends on 
the pick from that side on which shuttle has rebounded. With a rebound- 
ing shuttle, a weak pick is made because of the loss of the initial move- 
ment in picking, that is, before the picker comes in contact with the 
shuttle, and the shuttle is not driven hard enough to get full into the 
opposite box and loom bangs. 

There are four causes of rebounding shuttle: First, pick too strong. 
Second, insufficient check. Third, loose box. Fourth, protector finger slip- 
ped. First, if pick is too strong, shuttle will rebound and the pick must be 
reduced by raising lug strap on picker stick or by raising the driving arm. 
Second, when a shoulder swell is used and there is not sufficient check 
on the shuttle, it will almost invariably rebound unless the shuttle box 
is very tight and that should not be. If the picker stick is fixed so as 
to remain about two or three inches in the shuttle box and the pick is 
not too strong, the shuttle should not rebound. (See Chapter Five). 
With a gradual tapered shuttle and binder the check finger on protector 
rod should be set to hold the shuttle in position when it gets to the 
back end of the box. When the shuttle is almost full into the box the 
check finger should be in contact with the lay sole. (See Chapter Ten, 
Protection Motion.) Third, if the box is loose the only remedy is to 
tighten up the box. Fourth, When protector finger slips there is lost 
motion between the finger and binder, and this allows the shuttle to 
shoot into the box and rebound. In resetting the finger in correct posi- 
tion, care will have to be taken that the dagger is full in the frog and 
frog in position it will be when loom is running, so that the dagger will 
clear the frog with shuttle in box and will strike full in frog when 
shuttle is not in box. 

Loose Picker Stick. 

If the picker stick and parallel are not fastened securely together 
a weak pick is made owing to lost motion. The remedy is to tighten 
up the bolt that holds the two together. 

Belt Slipping. 

A slipping belt often causes loom to bang. The belt should be 
thoroughly cleaned and a good belt dressing applied. 

Lost Motion in Gone. 

This is caused by neglecting to oil the cone with the result that the 
cone wears and becomes loose on its stud and a weak pick results. The 
only remedy is to replace with a new cone. 

Neglecting to oil will also cause a flat place to be made on the out- 
side of cone because the pick point strikes the same place on each pick. 
This occasionally causes a weak pick and loom bangs off. 
Change of Atmosphere. 

If there has been a sudden change from dry to damp weather the 
boxes will become sticky and damp. Shuttle will not fit correctly in the 
box and loom will bang off. To remedy, take a piece of waste and wipe 
shuttles and boxes thoroughly dry. If this does not immediately remedy, 
take a piece of fine sand-paper and rub the shuttle. It is advisable to 
rub both shuttles so as to keep them the same width. The very smallest 
drop of oil put on the binder with the finger after cleaning with waste 
will often remedy. 



-Practical Loom Fixing 51 

Lug Strap Too Far From Picker Stick. 

Sometimes the lug strap is too far from back of picker stick, allow- 
ing top much play. The pick may begin on time, but the cone will have 
traveled too far up the pick point and in this way a soft pick is made. 
The remedy is to tighten up the lug straps so as to reduce the space be- 
tween picker stick and strap, then set picking cam back and in this way 
the full pick point will be used for the pick. 

Shedding Cams Too Early. 

If shedding cams are set too early, the shed will be closing before 
the shuttle gets full across the lay with the result that, the shed is often 
closed on the back end of shuttle and shuttle is tilted as it enters the box 
The result is that the shuttle does not get full into the box and loom 
bangs off. This also causes the shuttle to be chipped, and the tip is also 
often blunted. 

Shedding Cams Too Late. 

If shedding cams are set too late, the shuttle will enter the shed 
before it is full open and in this way will be retarded in its movement 
and loom will bang off occasionally. 

Worn Pick Point. 

By continued use the pick point will wear off and the force of the 
blow reduced. Frequently when this occurs extra pick is added by low- 
ering the lug strap, but when the pick point is badly worn it is advisable 
to replace with a new one. Neglecting to oil the pick cam and cone 
causes the pick point to wear off sooner. 

LOOM STOPPING. 

The essential difference between loom banging and loom stopping is 
that in loom banging the loom stops with a jar while in loom stopping 
the shipper handle slips out of the shipper handle stand and loom stops 
easily. In the majority of cases when the loom stops, the trouble can 
generally be located with the filling fork and filling fork motion though 
there are other causes of loom stopping. Some of the causes of loom 
banging will also cause loom to stop. 

In setting the filling fork have shuttle in shuttle box on filling fork 
side of loom. Push filling fork slide as far forward as it will go and 
have crank on front center. The prongs of filling fork should then be 
in the grate. Care must be taken that the prongs of the fork pass clear 
into the grate. If the prongs touch the grate the loom will, in some 
cases, stop with filling not broken, and in others will run when filling 
is broken. The bottom of the prongs of fork should not touch the lay 
sole when fork is raised as this will cause loom to stop. 

When the fork has been correctly set, and the crank on front center, 
the stop motion cam should be set so that the elbow lever will be just 
passing under the catch on fork. Sometimes a little later setting is 
preferable, that is, have crank just past front center with elbow lever 
just passing under catch on fork. 

If loom stops and fork is set correctly then something else is the 
cause. Other causes of loom stopping are as follows: 

Rebounding Shuttle. 

When a shuttle rebounds in the box the filling becomes loose. In- 
stead of the fork being raised, the loose filling is forced through the 
grate and the catch on fork is caught by the elbow lever and loom is 
stopped. 



52 Practical Loom Fixing 

Filling Catching on Fork. 

A rebounding shuttle will also cause filling to catch on fork because 
the filling is loose. If the prongs of the fork stand out too far or are 
too short the filling will catch on them. This holds down the catch on 
fork so that the elbow lever coming in contact with same stops the 
loom. If the filling catches on fork and does not stop the loom at once, 
the catch on fork will be raised up and if filling should run out or break 
the loom will not stop until the filling that is caught on the fork, breaks. 
The prongs of fork should be either straight or slightly concave, for with 
tbis shape, filling is not as liable to catch. 

Fork Too Far Through Grate. 

This will cause the fork to be lifted too high and the result is that 
after dropping, the fork rebounds and the catch on fork is caught by 
the elbow lever and loom is stopped. This occasionally causes the filling 
10 become slack and catch on the fork. 

Not Sufficient Friction on Filling in Shuttle. 

If there is not sufficient friction on filling in shuttle, the filling will 
be slack and the fork will not be raised. A piece of flannel or felt 
inserted near the eyelet in shuttle will generally overcome this defect. 
Filling Slipping Up or Down on Fork. 

As the fork is passing through the grate, the filling sometimes slips 
either up or down the fork. This depends on the shape of the fork. 
When possible a straight prong fork should be used and if filling should 
slip on same two or three notches can be made in the prongs just about 
where the filling should be held. These notches must not be sharp or 
they will cut the filling. 

Wrong Timing of Stop Motion Cam. 

If stop motion cam is set too early, the elbow lever comes in contact 
with the catch on fork and loom is stopped. If cam is set too late, the 
fork will have been raised and have dropped back again in time for 
elbow lever to come in contact with catch on fork and stop loom. 
Crooked Running Shuttle. 

A crooked running shuttle will sometimes touch the fork in passing 
and this causes the fork to jump. The result is that the catch on fork 
drops in front of elbow lever and if lever is being moved outwards by 
the stop motion cam the loom is stopped. A late pick will sometimes 
have this effect, the back end of the shuttle touching the fork as shuttle 
passes into the box. 

Stand For Shipper Handle Worn. 

If the shipper handle stand is worn, the shipper handle will slip 
cut and loom will stop. This only occurs on old looms, but the stand will 
bave to be fixed so that the shipper handle will fit securely in it. 
Occasional Rubbing of Dagger Against Frog. 

When the lay comes forward to beat up the filling, the dagger 
should make a full clearance of the frog. Sometimes the dagger rubs 
against the frog, not enough to make the loom bang off, but enough to 
gradually push off the shipper handle. This can be seen by looking at 
the end of dagger, which will be worn and polished by coming m con- 
tact with the frog. To remedy this, the dagger and protector fingers 
will have to be reset. In resetting the dagger have frog in position it will 
be when loom is running. Bring lay forward and have dagger full in 
frog. The protector fingers should then be set full against the binders. 
When shuttle is in box, the end of binder should be clear from box 



Practical Loom Fixing 53 

about one-half to five-eighths of an inch. In setting the dagger and pro- 
tector fingers, if frog is not in the position it will be when loom is 
running, but is back from that position, the dagger will strike too high 
and will often cause a smash. 

CHAPTER XV 

SHUTTLE FLYING OUT. 

Shuttle flying out of the loom is probably the most dangerous thing 
in weaving. However, shuttles do not fly out very often, considering 
the vumber of times t*e shuttle travels across the lay, and mstj little 
injury is caused by them. Practically all American looms are equipped 
with a shuttle guard. This is attached to the lay cap so that if shuttle 
should fly out of the shed in passing from one shuttle box to the other, 
the shuttle guard will keep the shuttle from leaving the loom. This 
reduces the danger of flying shuttles to a minimum. 

The shuttle should travel straight across the lay. If there should 
be any obstruction in the path of the shuttle it causes shuttle to fly out. 
Sometimes when an end breaks it becomes entangled with the other 
ends behind the reed and if the shuttle should pass on top of the 
tangled ends it will have a tendency to fly out, especially if the cloth is 
being woven with a loose top shed. Sometimes the cause of a shuttle 
flying out is hard to locate; at other times the cause can readily be 
located. There are quite a number of causes of shuttle flying out, some 
of which will be enumerated. 

Overfaced Reed. 

The reed should always be in line with the back of box. A straight- 
edge should always be used to line the backs of box and reed. If the 
reed is in front of the back of box, or in other words is overfaced, the 
shuttle will almost certainly fly out. The tip of the shuttle is turned 
outwards on delivery and shuttle shoots out. Overfaced reed can some- 
times be remedied by adjustment of the lay cap so as to have the reed 
ki line with back of box. 

Sometimes only the ends of reed are overfaced. This is due to the 
loom fixer using the hammer or wrench on the ends of reed to prevent 
overfaced reed, but when reed is turned around an overfaced reed is 
made and the ends of reed have again to be knocked back into line. The 
ends of a reed should never be knocked back, but should be lined up 
accurately with the straight-edge. 

The reed should be perfectly straight and smooth from one end to 
the other, and should not be dinged at any point, as this will cause a 
crooked running shuttle. Neither should any reed wires protrude in 
front as this will have a tendency to cause the shuttle to fly out. 

Underfaced Reed. 

An underfaced reed is one in which the end of reed is behind the 
back of box. This causes the shuttle to run zigzag across the lay and 
also causes shuttle to fly out. As in overfaced reed, the reed should 
lined accurately with back of box. This defect will also cause the 
shuttle to be chipped on the back as it is entering the box. 
Yarn too High Off Race Plate. 

If the yarn is too high off the race plate, the shuttle will be raised 
<tl delivery and will often fly out. Yarn can be too high off race plate 
by harness not being pulled down low enough or by temple being too 
high above race plate. 



54 



Practical Loom Fixing 
Picker Too Low. 



If picker is too 
low at the back end 
of box, or when shut- 
tle is being deliver- 
ed, the shuttle will 
almost certainly fly 
out. When picker is 
fastened to picker 
stick after having 
found the correct 
position of same, it 
is advisable to make 
a small hole in pick- 
er where shuttle 
strikes, and to have 
this hole a trifle 
higher than tip of 
shuttle when shutle 
is in box. The shut- 
tle will run with the 
tip in center of hole 
in picker and shut- 
tle level on race iron, 
but better results 
are possibly obtain- 
ed by having the 
hole raised about 
one-sixteenth of an 
inch higher. Under 
no circum stances 
must the hole in 
picker be too low. Figure 32. 

If the picker is too low when delivering the shuttle, the outer end 
of shuttle is tilted and shuttle will almost certainly fly out or hit the 
mouthpiece of the opposite box. To remedy this, put a piece of leather 
between picker 3tick and parallel tongue and this will elevate the 
picker at delivery. This is illustrated at Fig. 32. Arrow indicates where 
leather will be inserted. Parallel or shoe in solid lines shows position 
before leather is inserted. Dotted lines shows position of parallel after 
leather has been inserted. This lowering of the parallel alters the angle 
of picker stick at delivery and raises the picker. On some looms an 
adjusting set nut is used to make whatever adjustments are necessarv 
and this does away with the necessity of using a leather wedge. 

Loose Top Shed. 

If the top shed is too loose, the shuttle tip will pass on top of the 
loose ends and shuttle will fly out. Loose top shed can be caused by 
whip roll being too high; also harness shaft not raised high enough. 
Individual ends hanging loose in shed will sometimes cause shuttle to 
fly out. 

Rebounding Shuttle. 

When a shuttle rebounds in the box, the picker in picking strikes the 
shuttle a sudden blow because of the distance between tip of shuttle 
and picker. The shuttle is driven crooked from the box and shuttle 
will fly out. 




Practical Loom Fixing 55 

Race Plate Loose. 

A loose race plate is sometimes the cause of shuttle flying out, as 
this causes shuttle to travel crooked across the lay. 

Pick too Early. 

If the pick is too early the shuttle instead of going in the shed 
passes on the top and will fly out. Early picking also causes shuttle 
to travel crooked across the lay, and causes ridges to be made on back 
of shuttle. When a shutle does not travel straight across the lay, it 
will sooner or later fly out. 

Worn Picker. 

Pickers can sometimes be used until they are thoroughly worn out 
and are then replaced. At other times when the picker is worn and the 
hole made by the shuttle tip is too deep, there is a binding on the bacs 
of shuttle when shuttle is being delivered from box, and shuttle is 
thrown out. This binding can sometimes be remedied by elevating the 
picker at delivery as is done when picker is too low. 

CUTTING FILLING. * 

This is a source of trouble as it is often difficult to locate. This 
will generally cause the loom to stop, though at times the filling will be 
cut and will show a broken pick in the middle of the cloth, the filling 
having been caught in the shed again on the -same pick. This will spoil 
a pattern on some fancy fabrics. The following are some of the causes 
of filling being cut: 

Groove in Shuttle Not Deep Enough. 

When the shuttle is in shuttle box, the filling lies in the groove of 
the shuttle. If the face of the shuttle has been worn by constant 
wear and the groove is not deep enough, the filling is likely to be 
cut. The groove on end of shuttle beyond the eyelet must not be allow- 
ed to wear off as this is a source of cutting filling, especially on fine 
work. A shuttle, flat at the bottom, caused by the wear on shuttle in 
traveling across the lay will also cut the filling. The groove at the 
bottom of shutle must be retained as well as the groove in front of 
shuttle. 

Temple Too Low. 

If the trough of the temple is too low, the filling which often gets 
under the temple will be cut by the race plate coming in contact with 
the temple. 

Sharp Eyelet in Shuttle. 

This is caused by face of shuttle being worn and with shuttle strik- 
ing mouthpiece of the box. The sharp edge will have to be taken off 
and the eyelet put a little deeper in the shuttle. 

Shuttle Rising in Box. 

If the shuttle rises in box, the filling will get out of groove in shuttle 
and will be cut, especially if there is a groove in the binder, or the- 
groove has a sharp edge. When an iron binder is used, the top can be 
bent over just a trifle and this prevents the shuttle from rising. 
Sharp Filling Fork and Grate. 

Sometimes the grate becomes sharp on the edge and this cuts the 
filling. If the filling fork is sharp or passes too for through the grate, 
filling is sometimes cut. All sharp edges must be avoided. 
Crooked Running Shuttle. 

A crooked running shuttle often strikes the mouthpiece of the box 
as shuttle is entering and filling is cut. Shuttle should go straight into 
the box. 



56 Practical Loom Fixing 

Shuttle Spindle Sharp. 

When using cop filling it is sometimes necessary to open out the 
spindle to prevent the filling from breaking. In doing this, the end of 
spindle becomes sharp and when the cop is put on spindle the filling is 
cut inside the cop. 

FILLING AND BOBBINS BBEAKING. 

Pick Too Strong. 

If the pick is too strong, the shuttle will strike too hard in the box 
and filling will be broken. The base of the bobbin, namely, that part 
which is held so as to prevent bobbin from slipping, will be broken off. 
This causes much waste to be made and pick should be reduced as soon 
as possible. 

Boxes Too Loose. 

In this case practically the same thing happens as in pick too strong. 
The shuttle is not checked and strikes hard against the picker and 
filling will be broken. The boxes should be tightened, but should not 
be too tight. 

Soft Bobbin. 

If the spinning frame band is loose, a soft bobbin is made. It is 
almost impossible to weave a soft bobbin. 

Shuttle Spindle Too Small For Cop. 

If the shuttle spindle is very much too small for cop it will have 
to be replaced with a new one. A spindle can often be made large 
enough to hold a cop by opening it, but care is required so that the 
spindle will not cut the filling. 

UNEVEN CLOTH. 

Uneven cloth is a fabric in which the filling is not beaten into the 
cloth evenly, thereby causing the fabric to have a more or less cloudy 
appearance; also fabrics in which thick and thin places appear while 
loom is running. Very often uneven cloth is the result of imperfect 
working of the let-off motion though there are other causes for this 
defect: 

Bope on Friction Let Off Binding. 

The rope en friction let-off often binds in damp weather as it be- 
comes sticky, owing to dampness and the yarn is not let off evenly. The 
rope should be taken off and thoroughly cleaned, then a little powdered 
black lead, French chalk or talc powder sprinkled on the rope and 
beam will work easy. Black lead is the best, also the most expensive,, 
but only a little need be used at a time. Tallow is sometimes used, but 
this does not give good results as the ropes soon become sticky again, 
owing to dust and flyings accumulating on them. Oil is sometimes 
dropped on the rope by the weaver, but this should not be allowed as 
rope soon has to be cleaned owing to accumulations of dust and lint. 

Take Up Motion Out of Order. 

If the gears on take up motion are meshed too deep in each other 
they will lock and uneven cloth result. If the take up pawl takes up 
more than one tooth of the ratchet gear at certain times the cloth will be 
more or less thin at that point. If the pawl slips over the teeth in 
ratchet gear occasionally, thick places will result. The pawl will slip 
over teeth because it is worn and sometimes because of the teeth not 
being clear or deep enough. 



Practical Loom Fixing 57 

Loose Crank Arm. 

A loose crank arm will make uneven cloth on one side of the cloth. 

Gudgeons or Beam Spikes Bent. 
Gudgeons are sometimes bent when the loom beam is banged on the 
floor. This causes the beam to bind in the loom and the yarn is let 
off uneven causing uneven cloth. 

Worn Pawl and Gear in Gear Let Off. 

If the pawl in gear let off is worn it will pass over a few teeth in 

the ratchet gear when it ought not to, and yarn will not be let off 

evenly. Or, if the ratchet gear is worn the pawl will pass over a number 

- of teeth and the yarn will not be let off evenly. In both cases uneven 

cloth will be made. 

Weak Spriny Behind Let Off Pawl. 
The pawl is kept in contact with the ratchet gear by a small spring 
pressing against the back end of pawl. If this spring becomes weak, 
the pawl will slip over some teeth occasionally causing yarn to be 
let off unevenly. It is advisable to look out for this, for if the spring 
should break, the yarn will not be let off at all and a smash will result. 
Small Pinion Gear too Deep in Beam Head. 
The small driving pinion should not mesh too deep into the teeth 
on beam head as this will cause the beam to jump, especially if any 
small chips of iron have been left between the teeth on beam head. 
All new beam heads should be examined for this and all small chips 
taken out. 

Worm and Worm Gear Binding. 

The whole gear let off motion should work free and easy. If there 

is any binding whatever, either in worm and worm gear, rathet gear 

of any other part, uneven cloth will be made. Care should be taken 

with this let off motion to have all parts well oiled and carefully adjusted. 

Uneven Filling. 
On fine goods uneven filling shows up very plainly in the goods and 
sometimes makes the cloth appear uneven. 

Harness Straps Lapping Under. 
If the harness straps lap under each other, a jerky motion is given 
to the harness and this causes streaks in the cloth, especially on fine 
work. 

Automatic or Labor Saving Looms. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

The automatic loom has been the means of saving much labor in the 
weave room. In general, there are two kinds of automatic looms in use. 
One is the Northrop loom which is a bobbin changer and the other the 
Stafford loom, which is a shuttle changer. The Northrop loom changes 
the bobbin while loom is in motion. The Stafford loom stops for a few 
picks while the shuttles are being changed. One shuttle is used con- 
tinuously in the Northrop loom, but in the Stafford loom about nine 
shuttles can be used, eight being held in a magazine while the other 
shuttle is running in loom. 

The automatic motion is an addition to a regular loom and the con- 
struction of loom and fixing points, as given previously, are as applicable' 
to automatic looms as to ordinary looms. The only part of the looms 
^at need consideration now is the automatic feature. 



58 



Practical Loom Fixing 



The Stafford Loom. 

Figs 33 and 34 show the working parts of the Stafford loom. In Fig. 
33 K is a bevel gear on friction pulley. This gear drives shaft I through 
bevel gear J, the shaft carrying on its opposite end a worm gear H. The 
worm gear meshes into worm wheel G, giving this wheel a continuous 
motion but at a slow speed. The worm wheel is loose on the shaft h 
and carries no load until brought into use by the filling fork and slide. 
A, represents filling fork; A' filling stop motion lever; B and B' connection 




Figure 33. 

between filling fork slide and changing motion. Another sketch of the 
changing motion is given at Fig. 35. When filling breaks, elbow lever 
pulls back the filling fork slide H. This performs two operations simul- 
taneously. First, pushes off shipper handle; second, starts changing 
motion. When shipper handle is pushed off, cam A, through connecting 
rod B, is changed from one side to the other. 

In making this change, the center or highest point of cam marked X 
lifts the locking lever C. At this point the filling fork slide H is pulled 
back, and through connecting rod J lifts lever G, which pushes forward 
lever D. This relieves lever E, which in turn causes point of clutch 
lever F. Fig. 33, to engage with the disc, that is, to enter one of the 
recesses in the disc. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



59 



The clutch lever is mounted on a hub keyed to the cross shaft and 
the disc is cast integral with the worm wheel with the result that the 
cross shaft is set in motion. 

Fig. 34 illustrates the changing cams and magazine end. There are 
three cams on end of cross shaft, two of them being cast together and 
the third locked to these two so that it is impossible for them to get out 
of connection with each other. S, is the conveyor lever cam; W, the 
starting lever cam which is cast with the front board cam. 

The front board is the front part of shuttle box. The front board 
cam is shown in contact with the roll on lever N. As the cross shaft 




Figure 34 

revolves, the cam S starts the conveyor lever forward to receive a fresh 
shuttle from the magazine T. The cam W through the lever N and 
connecting rod raises the front board M, to permit the spent shuttle to 
be ejected by ejector I and this throws out the shuttle, to be guided by 
the leather apron P' into the receiving box I'. The conveyor lever R 
now starts back carrying a fresh shuttle. The front board is kept raised 
so that this shuttle can be placed in the box. When this is done, the 
front board is closed by means of a spring and the conveyor lever starts 
towards its normal position. The starting lever cam W now gives motion 
through lever X to the shipper rod Y and the give-away lever Z throws 
in the shipper handle and starts the loom. The conveyor lever by this 
time has returned to its normal position and the point of clutch lever 



60 



Practical Loom Fixing 



F, Fig. 33 is thrown out of the disk. All parts are now stationery until 
it is necessary to replenish the filling again. 

The spent shuttle as it is ejected, falls into the receiving box F where 
it is checked by the plate C so that it falls easily into the box. The 
plate C also acts in connection with the weighted lever D' and the hook 
E'. As the conveyor lever goes forward to receive a new shuttle, the 
hook drops into a recess in the conveyor lever. When the spent shuttle 
falls on the plate C on its way to the receiver box, the hook is released 
and the lever can perform its regular functions. If the spent shuttle 
is not ejected, the hook remains in contact with the conveyor lever and 
a new shuttle is not put in the shuttle box, thus preventing a smash up. 

A safety device prevents breakages also on the changing motion 




Figure 35 

Fig. 35. Unless the highest point of cam marked X is just passing under 
pin on lever C when the filling fork slide is pulled out, the lever D can- 
not be moved and spring between connecting levers D and G merely 
expands and breakages are prevented. 

Warp Stop Motion. 
This motion is illustrated in Fig. 34. Gear G is fixed on bottom shaft 
and is meshed into gear H, which drives the follower bar through con- 
necting rod 0' and N'. The follower bar, as it travels backwards and 
forwards raises hook J', which clears the give-away collar F' on rod Y. 
When and end breaks, a drop wire K' falls in the path of the follower bar 
and this causes the hook J' to come in contact with the give-away collar 
F and loom is stopped. 

The following points will assist in the operation of the loom: 
The front board should be lifted just high enough to allow the empty 
shuttle to be ejected freely. The ejector should be out of the way of the 
new shuttle that is being put in the box. The new shuttle should be 
delivered freely out of the magazine. The shuttle in magazine should not 
rest on shuttle that is being put in shuttle box. The conveyor top should 
be perfectly square with the lay and conveyor fingers should just clear 
the race plate. 



Practical Loom Fixing 
CHAPTER XVII 
NORTHROP LOOM. 



61 



The Northrop loom is a bobbin changing loom, the bobbin being 
changed while the loom is in operation. The forcing of the empty 
bobbin out of the shuttle and the placing of a full bobbin in the shuttle 
while the loom is in operation requires every part to be set and adjusted 
correctly. 

When filling feeler motion is not used, motion is imparted from 
fingers in contact with the fdling fork slide to the working parts for 
transferring the full bobbin to shuttle. Fig. 36 illustrates these parts. 
When filling breaks, the filling fork slide is pulled back and being in 




Figure 36 

contact with the finger on starting rod, will turn the starting rod into 
operative position. The shuttle at this time is traveling to the hopper 
side of the loom to be in position to receive a fresh bobbin. The bobbins 
in hopper being in position, the bobbin to be transferred will be resting 



62 



Practical Loom Fixing 



on the bobbin support E and against the bobbin rest A. When the start- 
ing rod has been turned, the latch C is raised and as the lay comes for- 
ward to the front center, the bunter D comes in contact with latch G, 
forcing down the transferer B on the full bobbin. The full bobbin forces 
the empty bobbin out of the shuttle and remains there. 

The shuttle should be in correct position in the box with the shuttle 



s? 






■ ■ i 




Figure 37. 

spring in line, with the heads of bobbins in the hopper. With shuttle 
in correct position, the transferrer should not touch at any point. If 
the transferrer should touch the shuttle, the proper position can be 
secured by turning the eccentric pins in lay swords. The pins in both 
swords should be turned an equal amount so that both of the crank 
arms will remain equal. 

In setting the transferrer to the bobbin the head of transferrer 
when at its lowest point should show a clearance of about one-six- 
teenth of an inch. The adjustment for this is made by means of set 
screw and adjusting nut on latch C. 



Practical Loom Fixing 63 

With lay in its forward position and a bobbin being transferred, the 
shuttle feeler will extend across the mouth of the box with the end of 
feeler close to the back of box but not touching it. When shuttle does 
not go far enough in the box, the end of shuttle comes in contact with 
the shuttle feeler and the feeler is pushed back. This causes the latch 
C to be out of position, thus preventing the bunter D from engaging 
with the latch and a fresh bobbin is not inserted in the shuttle. T.he 
shuttle feeler should be kept in good working condition and properly 
adjusted. 

With filling feeler in use, motion is imparted to the working parts for 
transferring bobbin, from the feeler through the slide and starting rod 
arm. When using filling feeler, the shuttle feeler is made in the form 
of a thread cutter and care must be taken so that it will cut the thread 
at the proper time and also prevent the transfer of bobbin when shuttle 
is not in position. 

The shuttle should be in correct position in box. If the shuttle is 
too far in box, the spring cover at the end of shuttle will permit the 
bobbin be put in the shuttle because it is beveled. The loom however 
.should not be run with shuttle too far in box but should be remedied as 
soon as possible. A worn picker will often cause this. The eye of shuttle 
should be kept clear of cotton or lint and the thread entrance to the 
eye should be kept open the correct distance and not be opened too wide. 

For friction, a piece of flannel placed near the mouthpiece of shuttle 
is often sufficient, this flannel being changed from time to time. A good 
friction is made from bristles, the bristles being fastened to both front 
and back of shuttle. 

If the shuttle is in correct position, the thread entrance in shuttle 
open the correct space, a light easy pick with not too much pressure on 
the binder, misthreading of the shuttle will be reduced to a minimum. 

Warp Stop Motions. 

When steel heddles are used the heddles are used as detectors to stop 
the loom when an end breaks. When ordinary twine or cotton harness is 
use4, drop wires are used between lease rods and harness or as in 
illustration Fig. 37, where there is one drop wire for each end and the 
drop wires are arranged in two banks. As the cam A revolves, the feeler 
Par B oscillates backwards and forwards. Movement is imparted to the 
feeler through C and the cam follower D. The knock off lever E should 
be set against its bearing on the cam hub so as not to have any back lash. 
Ihe feeler bar should move an equal distance on each side of the shaft 
to ensure good working of the stop motion. The cam follower should 
be set to follow the cam properly and this can be obtained by adjusting 
the spring to its proper tension. 

CHAPTER XVIII 

GINGHAM LOOMS. 

When fabrics have to be produced in which there are various colored 
threads in the filling, drop-box looms have to be used. These looms are 
usually constructed with either two, four or six shuttle boxes at one 
end of the lay and one shuttle box at the other end. An even number of 
picks of any given color of filling must be inserted in the cloth, as the 
shuttle must return to the drop-box end before a change can be made 
from one color to another. There are a number of different motions in 



64 



Practical Loom Fixing 



use to operate the drop boxes, one of the best of these being known as 
the Crompton Box Motion.. 

Box Motion. 
Fig. 38 illustrates two views of this box motion. First, at A, when 
looking at motion from end of loom. Second, at B, when looking at 
motion from back of loom. At C, the shape of the eccentric C and the 
crank E is illustrated. The parts are as follows: A is the driving pin 
in pin-wheel, said pin-wheel being set screwed on pick-cam shaft. B is 
the star gear. C, the single-box eccentric. D, the side lever. E, crank 
for two-box movement. F, small segment gear. G, the double-sliding 
finger. H, rod through which the top double-sliding finger is operated. 
J, rod through which the bottom sliding finger is operated. 

Operation of Motion and Boxes. As the pin-wheel, which is set- 
screwed on pick-cam shaft, is carried around with the shaft, the driving 
pin A passes into one of the recesses in the star gear B and carries the gear 
forward. The periphery of this gear is divided into ten equal parts, each 
part consisting of seven teeth and an empty space equal to three teeth. The 
small segment gears F have six teeth on each side and an empty space 
between teeth. An empty space on the star gear and and small segment 
gears are always opposite to each other before and after a box has been 
raised or lowered. This is to allow the double sliding finger G to pass 
in and out when boxes have to be changed. The single box eccentric C 
is fastened on the shaft which carries on its opposite end the small seg- 




Figure 38. 

ment gear F. The crank for two-box movement is fastened on the shaft 
which carries on its opposite end the small segment gear F. 

The illustration given shows the box motion when the boxes are in 



Practical Loom Fixing 65 

their normal position, namely,, with first or top opposite the race plate. 
When the single-box eccentric and the two-box crank are in this posi- 
tion, the projection on end of double sliding finger is on the outside so 
that when loom is running, the gear will revolve without coming in 
contact with the projection and boxes will not be changed. 

Timing of Box Motion. The boxes are timed by the pin wheel on 
end of pick cam shaft. This can be set to turn the star gear at any point. 
A good setting and one which will generally give satisfaction, is to set 
the driving pin in pin wheel to turn the star gear so as to have the boxes 
about one-eighth of an inch above or below the race plate when the 
dagger is in contact with the frog. The frog must be in the position it 
will be when loom is running. By the term, above the race plate is 
meant, when boxes are being raised; below the race plate, ,when boxes 
are being lowered. 

To Raise from First to Second Box. Insert a riser in the box chain 
under the lever which operates (through the rod H), the double-sliding 
finger on the single-box eccentric. This will force the short end of the 
double-sliding finger between the star gear and the small segment gear 
and the projection on the end of the finger will fill in the space between 
the two gears. When the driving pin in the pin-wheel turns the star 
gear, the first tooth in the gear will come in contact with the projection 
on sliding finger. This enables the teeth in both segment gears to be 
meshed into each other and the eccentric is turned half around. The 
deepest portion of the eccentric is turned from bottom to top, which 
raises the side lever D and consequently the boxes. This brings the 
second box opposite the race plate. The long end of the double-sliding 
finger is now between the segment gears with the projection on end of 
finger beyond the gears — this allows the star gear to revolve without 
coming in contact with the small segment gear. The finger will remain 
in this position until the boxes have to be changed. 

To Return Box to Original Position. On the next bar in box chain 
leave off the riser. This will force outwards the double-sliding finge^ 
and the projection on the end of finger will fill the space between the 
two gears. When the driving pin in pin-wheel turns the star gear, the 
first tooth of the gear will come in contact with the projection, and the 
eccentric will be turned to its original position, which will bring the 
first box opposite the race plate. 

To Raise From First to Third Box. Insert a riser under the lever 
which operates (through the rod J), the double-sliding finger on the 
crank which controls the two-box movement. This will bring the pro- 
jection on the small end of double-sliding finger between the two segment 
gears, and the crank will be turned half around exactly as in the case of 
the eccentric above described. 

To Bring Boxes Back to Original Position. On next bar of box 
chain, leave off the riser. This will bring the projection on finger be- 
tween the two segment gears, and the crank will make half a rotation to 
its original position with the first box opposite the race plate. 

To Raise From First to Fourth Box. Insert a riser in box chain 
under both levers. This will bring the projection on the short end of 
both double-sliding fingers between the two segment gears. When the 
driving pin in pin-wheel turns the star gear both the eccentric and the 
crank are turned half around and the fourth box is brought opposite the 
race plate. 

To Bring Boxes Back to Original Position. On next bar leave off 
both risers. This brings the projection on long end of both double- 
sliding fingers between the segment gears and both the single-box ec- 



66 



Practical Loom Fixing 



centric and the two-box crank will be turned half around, which will 
bring the boxes back to original! position, the first or top box opposite 
the race plate. 

When making a fabric, the boxes do not change in the order given, 
that is to say, they do not return to normal position each time before 
a change to another box is made. The order as given above shows the 
principle of raising and lowering the boxes separately. In actual prac- 
tice the changes are made according to the colors in the shuttles and 
the colors required in the fabric. 

The changes thus far indicated are as follows: First to second box, 
riser under single-box lever. Second box to first box, empty bar. First 
box to third box, riser under lever that operates the crank for the two- 
box movement. Third box to first box, empty bar. First box to fourth 
box, riser under both levers. Fourth box to first box, empty bar. 

Any change between these can be made. If two risers will raise 
fi»m first to fourth box, then to lower to third box, the riser on the 
single-box lever is left out. To lower from fourth to second box, the 
riser under lever that operates the crank for two-box movement is left 
out. 

CHAPTER XIX 
GINGHAM LOOM BOX CHAIN BUILDING. 

In building box chains there are several points that have to be taken 
into consideration in order to have the loom operating to the best advan- 
tage. There should not be a skip from first to fourth box, or from fourth 
to first box if it is possible to avoid same, as this subjects the motion to a 
great strain, for the boxes must be changed in the same time as when 
making a smaller lift of one or two boxes. 

The shuttle carrying the color of filling that is used most is very often 
put. in top box. At other times, when the number of picks are about 
equally distributed throughout the pattern, the dark color is put in 
top box. 



White 


/ 


Z 


3 


s-£ P. c k s 


Block 


2 


1 


1 


~4 


w^,-f P 


/ 


Z 


3 


-L 


Rf=d 


3 


3 


Z 


M 


WLte 


1 


Z 


3 


~L 


Grpf n 


4- 


A 


4 


-z 



S 

;* 

X 
X 

X 

X 
X 

X 
X 
X 
X 


c 

X 
X 

X 



Figure 39 

Arranging the Colors in Boxes. — Example: A gingham fabric is re- 
quired to be made from the following colors: 6 picks white, 4 picks black, 
6 picks white, 4 picks red, 6 picks white, 2 picks green. One of the best 
methods for obtaining the arrangement of colors in boxes is as follows: 
Write under each other the different colors as they occur in the fabric, 
then opposite each color mark the number of box in which the color is 
to be tried in; the top box in loom being the first box. Using example 



Practical Loom Fixing 



67 



given, Fig. 39 illustrates the colors as they occur in example, also begin- 
ning in first line with the first color in first box. This does not give a 
good arrangement, as there is a skip from first box white to fourth box 
with green, also from fourth box with green to first box with white. The 
number of picks of each color to be inserted in the fabric is indicated at 
(he side. The second or third arrangement will be satisfactory, as there 
is only a skip of one box. The box chain for this example is also given 
at Fig. 39 using the second arrangement of colors. S indicates single 
lever to raise one box. C indicates crank to raise two boxes. X rep- 
resent risers or balls. Empty squares represent sinkers or tubes. Each 
bar in box chain is equal to two picks. 

MULTIPLIER MOTION. 

When check patterns have to be woven in which a large number of 
picks of the same color are inserted in the fabric before a change is made 
to another color, a multiplier motion is used. This motion is of much 
value as considerable time is saved in building box chains, in space 
occupied, and in cost of same. When a multiplier motion is used the box 
chain is considerably reduced, for example: If 24 picks of a color had to 
be inserted in the fabric, 12 bars would be required in box chain if a 
multiplier motion is not used, but with a 12 pick multiplier motion only 
two bars in the box chain would be necessary. With a 24 pick multiplier, 
only one bar in the box chain would be required. 

There are two kinds of multiplier motions, namely, the chain motion 
and the disc motion. The chain motion can be made to multiply on any 
even number of picks but the disc motion is generally used to multiply 
on 12 or 24 picks. 




Figure 40. 

The Disc Multiplier motion is used on Crompton Box Looms and 
i« illustrated at Fig. 40. 

A disc A has on its periphery two depressions. A ratchet gear is 
fastened to the disc, said gear having twelve teeth, each tooth represent- 



68 



Practical Loom Fixing 



ing two picks. With two depressions in the disc this will represent 
a twelve-pick multiplier. A small finger B presses against the periphery 
of the disc, said finger being connected to a lever G, which is under a 
pin in the pawl D, that drives the box-chain barrel. When the finger 
is in one of the depressions in the disc, the multiplier is stopped and 
the chain barrel is working, namely, the chain-barrel pawl is turning 
over the chain barrel one bar every two picks.. To start the multiplier, a 
riser is put in the box chain under the multiplier lever. This causes 
lever E to be lowered and the pawl F comes in contact with the ratchet 
gear on disc, and disc is turned. The finger is forced out of the de- 
pression on disc, as shown in illustration, which also raises the chain- 
barrel driving pawl out of connection and prevents further movement 
of the box-chain cylinder. The disc will continue to turn until finger 
drops into the next depression, and this will start up the box chain. 
From one depression on the disc to the other represents twelve picks 
of the same color that will be put in cloth before a change is made, so 
that if twenty-four picks of the same color are required in the cloth 
multiplier riser will have to be put on two adjoining bars of the box 
chain. 

To illustrate the principle of making a box chain when using multi- 
plier motion the following patterns is given: 

Example: A gingham fabric is required to be made with the follow- 
ing colors, using a 12-pick multiplier; 6 picks black, 12 picks green, 6 
picks black, 24 picks red, 4 picks white, 24 picks red. Fig. 41 illustrates 
the different arrangement of colors in boxes. The second and third lines 
give the best arrangement, as there are no skips whatever in these. The 
box chain is also illustrated at Fig. 41 using the second line. X represents 
risers or balls, empty squares represent sinkers or tubes. S indicates 
single lever to raise one box. G indicates crank to raise two boxes. M 
indicates multiplier lever. 

Fig. 41 shows the complete box chain Fig. 42 as it would be made 
for the loom. 

STILL BOX MOTION. 

This motion is also called the Head Release Motion and is indispens- 
able to the box loom. Its purpose is to prevent broken patterns, that is, 
if the filling breaks, the chain barrel is not pushed forward and the 
loom can therefore be started up without making a mis-pattern. There 



Fi 1 q.c. k 


i 


3 


Z 


* i, P,cks 




Z 


4 


i 


/Z 


Filct.k 


i 


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z 


~ L 


Re>H 


3 


a 


3 


•Z4- " 


VVlnAr 


4 


/ 


* 


-4. 


R*.J 


3 


e, 


3 


--2+ " 



ASC 



_x 

_x 

_x 

XX >? 

x 

1 = 2 

_x 

X X 

**_ 

x"x"~ 

xx-- 




D L 



Slot 



Figure 41 



Figure 44. 



Practical Loom Fixing 



69 



3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 
3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 

3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 
4th Box Green — 12 picks. 
3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 
3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 

3rd Box Black— 2 picks . . 
2nd Box Red — 12 picks.. 

2nd Box Red — 12 picks . . 
1st Box White— 2 picks. 

1st Box White— 2 picks. 
2nd Box Red — 12 picks . . 

2nd Box Red — 12 picks.. 



c 

c 

c 
c 
i 
c 
c 
c 



MS c 



I I 



Q= 



I I 



T ' ' 



■n 



E2 



n 



I E3 



i i 



1 ' ■ 



C3 



t 



Fiffiire 42. 



70 



Practical Loom Fixing 



are several makes of this motion, one being illustrated at Fig 43. A 
double cam A is fixed on the pick cam shaft. This cam revolves between 
the two levers B and G, which are pivoted at D. A locking lever E is 
mounted on a stud on the upper lever B at G, said lever E locking with 
arm E 1 , mounted on stud F in lower lever C. A catch slide H is attached 
fo the top end of the locking lever F. The cylinder connecting rod 
J is attached to the lower end of the cylinder lever G. The catch slide 
works forward and backward through a slotted sliding bar K, which 
is supported by a bracket to the side of loom. The slotted bar is illus- 
trated in Fig. 44. 




Figure 43. 

Operation of Motion.— A rod extends the full width of breast beam. 
On one end of the rod a finger is attached which is in contact with the 
filling fork slide, and on the other end of rod the finger L is attached. 
When loom is running, the cam A revolves with the shaft, the larger of 



Practical Loom Fixing 71 

the two surfaces operating under top lever B. The two levers, B and 
C, are held together through the combined action of the spring and 
locking lever, so that when top lever is raised the bottom lever is also 
raised. The cylinder connecting rod J is therefore raised, which forces 
over the chain barrel through pawl D, Fig. 40, page 67 — and at the same 
time gives a forward movement to the catch slide H, which passes through 
the slot in sliding bar. The small cam will draw back the levers. When 
filling breaks, the filling fork slide forces back the finger which is in 
contact with it, and this raises finger L, at the same time raising the 
slotted sliding bar K. As the catch slide H comes in contact with the 
bottom of slot the forward movement is stopped. This forces back 
locking lever E and causes the lever to turn on its pivotal support G, 
against the action of the spring, allowing the arm B to be raised by the 
movement of cam while the arm C remains stationary, and the action 
of connecting arm J on the chain barrel is immediately arrested. 

Timing of Still Box Motion. — With lay on front center and shuttle 
in single box end, the cam should begin to move forward the catch slide H. 

Breakage Preventers. 

The breakage preventer in the box motion consists of a spring bolt, 
which holds the top of the sliding finger shaft box in position. This is a 
spring on an ordinary bolt and is of sufficient strength to keep the top 
of box in position when everything is in good working order. The empty 
spaces of the star gear and small segment gears should be directly oppo- 
site each other, so that the large gear can revolve without coming in con- 
tact with the small gear, but if from any cause the small gear should be 
turned over so that the large gear connects when it ought not to, the top 
of the sliding finger shaft box will be forced up, and this will prevent the 
breaking of teeth in gears and also the top of the sliding finger shaft box 
from being broken. • 

The small gear turning over farther than it ought to is often caused 
b:v a weak spring on the spring lever. On the back of each cam are four 
projecting pins and a spring lever is held on two of the pins, which, ,if 
of sufficient strength, will prevent the cam from moving out of posi- 
tion after being changed, but if the spring is weak the small gear will 
partly turn over and be caught by star gear. Spring lever is shown at K, 
Fig. 38, page 64. 

Another breakage preventer is in the form of a spring clamp. The 
stud in end of lifting rod D, Fig. 38, by which the boxes are raised and 
lowered, is held by a spring clamp. Fig. 45 illustrates an end view of 
the boxes and spring clamp with the stud in clamp marked' A. If the 
shuttle should be trapped between lay sole and boxes as boxes are being 
raised or lowered, the stud will be forced out of its position and no dam- 
age will be done to either shuttle or shuttle boxes. This figure also 
illustrates the shuttle trapped between shuttle box and lay sole as box is 
being lowered. It will readily be seen that unless the stud was forced out 
cf position either the shuttle or shuttle box would be broken. If the 
picker or anything else should get stuck in boxes the same thing will 
occur. 

Shuttle Check Cam. 

On some box looms a shuttle check cam is used. This is a small cam 
about three inches in length and extends about one-half inch beyond the 
surface of the pick cam on the drop box side of the loom. When crank 



72 Practical Loom Fixing 

is on back center the pick cone should be in center of cam and the lug 
straps set to hold the picker stick not more than one inch on the spindle. 

CHAPTEE XX 

GINGHAM LOOM FIXING POINTS. 

Shuttles. — All shuttles must be as near the same size, shape and 
weight as it is possible to get them or good results cannot be obtained. 
The single box has to be fitted to all the shuttles, and if one shuttle is 
very much different from Vile others there will be trouble in running 
same. The shuttles should not be too large or they will chip through 
striking the mouthpiece of the box. Neither should they be too small or 
the picker race will cut the shuttle at the top. 





Figure 45. 
Binders. — The binders should be bent to grip the shuttle about half- 
way, also to give a gradual check to the shuttle as it enters the box. The 
Hat end of binder should not be set full against the box, as there is 




Figure 46 

always more or less loose filling when shuttle is leaving the box, and if 
the end is full against the box there is a tendency to cut the filling. It 
is only necessary to have the extreme end of binder against the box. 

This is illustrated at Fig. 46. A shows how the end of binder is 
against the mouthpiece of box. B shows the end of binder flat against 
the mouthpiece of box. Arrow indicates where filling will get between 
binder and mouthpiece of box. 



Practical Loom Fixing 73 

Sharp Edges in Boxes. — In starting up a new set of boxes it is ad- 
visable to take off all sharp edges with a very fine file. The groove in 
swell must be perfectly smooth, as any sharp edges will cut the filling. 
The sharp edges of picker race should be taken off or shuttle will be cut. 






Figure 47. 

Shuttles Working Loose in Box.— When large patterns are made in 
which a shuttle is used only occasionally, there is a tendency for this 
shuttle to work forward in the box with the result that when shuttle is 
picked across the lay the loom will bang off. To overcome this the swell 



74 Practical Loom Fixing 

should grip the shuttle about half-way and shuttle should be held firmly 
in box, but not too tight. The boxes should work freely in the slides, 
but should not be loose or they will swing about and this has a tendency 
10 cause the shuttle to gradually move to the front of box. The picking 
motion must also be set to give an easy pick. 

Putting on New Picker. — When a new picker is put on it must be 
perfectly true. If warped in any way, good results cannot be obtained 
irom it. The picker must work free on spindle and in the picker race. 
A small hole is often made in the picker where the shuttle strikes. A 
good bunter should always be kept on the spindle, as this saves the 
picker and stud from the jar that would otherwise be given when picker 
strikes the spindle stud. Bunters are made in different ways, but a 
serviceable one is made from a strip of leather with spindle holes cut in 
it about two and one-half or three inches apart. A leather washer can 
also be put on the spindle between the holes. 

Guide Plate. — Fig. 47 illustrates the setting of picker to guide plate. 
When the picker is at the back end of box, the face of picker should be 
flush with the guide plate. This is shown at A and this setting allows 
the shuttle boxes to change without in any way affecting the shuttle. 

If the face of picker is not flush with guide plate, but is too far back 
in box the shuttle will also be too far back and when boxes are changing, 
the tip of shuttle will strike the guide plate. This will cause the shuttle 
tip to become flat on the end. It will also cause the guide plate to be 
worn. The boxes are also apt to skip and sometimes cause a smash. 
This is illustrated at B. 

When the face of picker is too far out in the box the back end of 
shuttle will be caught on the picker when boxes are being raised or 
lowered. This will also cause the boxes to skip and shuttle to fly out 
or cause a smash. This setting is illustrated at C. 

A buffer is used on the back end of spindle and also in the back 
end of box, and by regulating this, the face of the picker can be made 
flush with the guide plate. These buffers also reduce the jar when the 
shuttle strikes the picker. The buffer in the back end of box can be 
made from cloth in the form of a roll, or can be made of leather. 

Setting the Boxes. — The boxes must be set so that the bottom of each 
box will be level with race plate. If this is not done there will be con- 
siderable trouble with shuttles chipping and also flying out. 

The first or top box is adjusted by set nuts at the bottom of lifting 
rod. The second box is adjusted by the stud in slot at front end of 
lifting lever. The third and fourth boxes are adjusted by the stud in slot 
at back end of lifting lever, also by crank E, Fig. 38, page 64. 

No positive rule can be given to set the boxes. Each box has to be 
set separalely, beginning with the top box. If, in changing from one 
box to another, the boxes do not come level with the race plate after 
setting first box, the leverage is not equally divided. By moving the studs 
in slot of lifting lever backward or forward according to whether the boxes 
are too high or too low, the right leverage will be obtained. Any change in 
either of the studs will correspondingly change the position of boxes. 

To illustrate the difference in leverage when raising the boxes refer 
fo Fig. 38. When a change is made from first to second box the single 
box cam C is turned. This brings the largest part of cam on top with 
the fulcrum of lifting lever at the back end of lever. To change from 
first to third box the crank E is turned. This brings the fulcrum of 
lifting lever on the single box cam with the cam in its normal position, 
that is the largest part of cam at bottom. To change from first to fourth 



Practical Loom Fixing 



75 



box both cams have to be turned. This will change the position of the 
tulcrum on lifting lever. From this it will be seen that as the position 
of the fulcrum changes there can be no hard and fast rules given to set 
the boxes, but judgment must be used in setting them. The boxes must 
either be perfectly level, or the back end elevated a trifle with the front 
end level with the race plate. Under no circumstances must the back 
end of the box be lower than the front end. 

Boxes Skipping. — If the links on chain are not set right the chain 
will have a tendency to bind. The link should be put on the bars so as 
to have them alternate; that is, one outside and the next inside, on both 
sides of the chain to correspond. Fig. 42, page 69, illustrates this method 
of putting on the links. Short or bent links will cause the chain to ride on 
the barrel, instead of dropping in the notches. Double-sliding finger not 
working freely will cause the boxes to skip. It is necessary that this 
finger be kept well oiled, in fact, the whole motion must be kept well 
lubricated. 

CHAPTER XXI 

DOBBY HEAD MOTION. 

Two kinds of dobbies used in cotton mills are known as single 
action dobby and double action dobby. The single action has a closed 
shed, but the double action has an open shed. In a single action, the 
harness returns to the bottom of the shed every pick. These machines 




Figure 48. 

are not used very extensively, but where they are used, fancy lenos are 
generally made on them. This dobby has several disadvantages, the 
principal one is that the loom cannot run very fast because of the 
time required to change the harness from one pick to another. Another 
disadvantage is that the filling has to be beaten up into the cloth in a 
closed shed. The dobby that is most extensively used at the present 
time is the double action dobby. This dobby is often referred to as 



76 Practical Loom Fixing 

double index or single index dobby. The working parts of both are 
practically the same, the actual difference between them will be ex- 
plained under separate headings. 

DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. 

A sketch of the working parts of a double index dobby is given at 
Fig. 48. The following are the names given to the different parts: A, 
harness lever. B, B 1 are the jack hooks. C, jack. D, connection of jack 
with harness lever. E, needles. F, rod which passes through all the 
harness levers. G, rod on which the ends of all the harness levers 
work. H, H\ knives. J, J\ index fingers. K, rod which passes through 
all the index fingers. L, chain barrel. The harness lever A has a num- 
ber of notches on the top. These notches are for the purpose of regu- 
lating the lift on the harness shafts. Each harness shaft is connected 
to a harness lever by a wire loop and harness strap. The loop is put in 
one of the notches. For front harness shafts the loops are put in 
notches near the bottom and are stepped higher in the notches for back 
harness. The reason for this being that the back harness shafts have 
ta travel a greater distance than the front harness shafts in order to 
make the same size of shed. Rod F, which passes through all the har- 
ness levers, is fixed outside the frame of dobby. Its purpose is to keep 
the harness levers in contact with the rod G, and also to prevent the 
bottom of the levers from jumping when levers are being raised. The 
index finger J is in contact with the top jack B through the needle E, 
but the finger J 1 is directly in contact with the bottom jack hook B 1 . 

SINGLE INDEX DOBBY. 

A sketch of the working parts of a single index dobby is given at 
Fig. 49. In comparing this sketch with Fig. 48 it will be seen that the 
only difference between them is in the method of operating the jack 
hooks through the index fingers. In this dobby one index finger operates 
two jack hooks, the bottom jack hook by being directly in contact with 
the finger and the top jack hook in contact through the needle E. The 
top of the needle is directly under top jack hook and the bottom of the 
needle fits into a small groove at the end of the index finger, so that 
when the finger is raised both hooks are lowered at the same time, and 
one of them will be caught on the knife that is moving outward on that 
pick. Stated briefly, the distinctive difference between the two dobbies 
is as follows: In a single index dobby, one index finger operates both 
top and bottom jack hooks. The chain bar is turned over every pick, 
as each bar represent only one pick. In a double index dobby, one index 
finger is required for every jack hook. The chain bar is turned over 
once on every two picks as each bar represents two picks. There are 
twice as many index fingers in a double index dobby as there are in a 
single index dobby. 

OPERATING DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. 

In operating the dobby, the knives H, H 1 are connected at each end 
by a knife hook to a rocking arm. The knife hooks are threaded on the 
end so that the knives can be set in different positions. Figure 50 
shows the knives connected to the rocking arm by the knife hooks. The 
rocking arms are fulcrumed in the center, and as one knife is coming 
forward the other is returning. To raise the harness shaft a peg is put 
in a bar in the chain. The chain is put on the chain barrel L, and the 
peg comes in contact with an index finger. If a peg is put under the 
index finger J the opposite end of the finger is lowered, because the rod 
K acts as a fulcrum for the fingers. This lowers the jack hook so that 



Practical Loom Fixing 



77 



when the knife comes forward, the catch on the hook is caught on the 
knife and the harness lever and harness shaft is raised. This is clearly- 
seen in Fig. 48. A peg is placed in the chain bar under the index 
linger J, which lowers the top jack hook over the knife H. As the knife 
comes forward, it catches the hook and pulls the jack and harness lever 
to position indicated by dotted lines. In many dobbies the rocking arms 
are of different sizes. The front rocking arm is smaller than the one 
at the back. This is to allow greater leverage on the back harness. 

Driving Dobby. — The dobby can be driven either from the crank 
shaft or pick cam shaft. When driven from pick cam shaft a driving 
rod is connected from rocking arm in dobby to a crank setscrewed on 
end of bottom shaft. On this drive a pawl is always used to turn over 
the chain barrel. When the dobby is driven from crank shaft the 
rocking arm is connected by a driving rod to a gear, which receives 
motion from gear on crank shaft of half the number of teeth, so that 
two revolutions of gear on crank shaft are required to make the inward 
and outward movement of knives in dobby. 




Figure 49. 

Driving Chain Barrel. — There are two distinct methods of driving 
chain barrel: First, by pawl fixed on front rocking arm. Second, by 
worm and worm gear. In the first method a ratchet gear is setscrewed 
on the front end of chain barrel shaft. This gear is pulled over by the 
pawl fixed to a stud in the lower portion of front rocking arm. The 
pawl pulls over the chain barrel when the lower portion of rocking 
arm is on its outward movement, so that when this driver is used each 
bar in chain represents two picks. The distance chain barrel is turned, 
can be regulated by raising or lowering pawl stud in slot of rocking 
arm. When stud is raised leverage is decreased, but when lowered, 



78 Practical Loom Fixing 

leverage is increased. When a change is made in either case a corres- 
ponding change has often to be made with the rachet gear. 

The second method of driving is used on both single and double 
index dobbies, generally on single index. In this method motion is im- 
parted to the chain barrel from the crank shaft. One arrangement for 
single index is as follows: A gear of 30 teeth on crank shaft meshes in 
another gear of 60 teeth. This latter gear is setscrewed to an horizontal 
shaft that carries a small bevel gear on the opposite end, which meshes 
into another bevel gear fixed on a vertical shaft. At the top of the 
vertical shaft a worm is attached which drives the worm geer on chain 
barrel shaft. Other methods of driving are used, one of which is the 
use of a chain connecting crank shaft to another small shaft that 
carries the worm gear which drives the chain barrel. In all cases of 
single index drive, care is required in setting the motion so as to get the 
correct timing. 

Setting Dobby on Loom. — To set a dobby on a loom there are a few 
points that will require to be taken notice of. Adjust the position of the 
cord rollers or sheaves so that the harness shafts will be suspended 
an equal distance from each side of the loom. Have the front cord 
roller adjusted so that the front harness will be from one-half to three- 
quarters of- an inch behind lay cap when crank is on back center. Set 
the spring blocks on the floor in a line with the roller cords. This can 
be obtained by dropping a plumb from the rollers at the sides on which 
the cords work. The point thus found will be the center of spring block. 
Harness hooks can be put in harness shafts to correspond with plumb 
line. 

Starting Up Dobbies. — When starting up a new dobby the harness 
levers will have to be adjusted so that they will work free and easy. The 
levers can be adjusted by set-nuts on each side of the frame. Dobby is 
generally run before connecting up the harness straps, and in running, 
the levers should drop of their own weight. Every working part will 
require a good oiling. In a double index dobby with a worm gear drive 
for chain barrel, connection between driving of dobby and chain barrel 
will have to be specially noticed, so that both can be set together on 
the same pick. To illustrate: The dobby can be set so as to have either 
the top or bottom knife coming outward on the first pick. If the first 
row of pegs in the chain govern the top set of jack hooks, the driver 
will have to be set so that the top knife will come out on first pick. If 
driving is set so as to have bottom knife coming outward on first pick, 
a broken up pattern will result, because the second row of pegs, which 
is the second pick, governs the bottom jack hooks, and this will cause 
the harness that ought to be raised for second pick to be raised for first 
pick. The picks will be put in the pattern as follows: Second, first, 
fourth, third, sixth, fifth, and so on, which gives a ragged appearance 
to the pattern. 

Obtaining the Size of Shed.— The size of shed required on a dobby 
is just sufficient to allow the shuttle to pass through without chafing 
the yarn. The shed can be regulated generally in three different places: 
First, driving crank. Second, rocking arm. Third, knife hooks. On 
some dobbies the size of shed can only be regulated at the driving crank 
and knife hook. In both cases the required adjustment can generally be 
made. First have the harness shafts strung up to harness straps, with 
the springs attached underneath. Keep the yarn tight when tied to the 
apron and have the yarn just resting on the race plate. The reason for 
having the yarn just resting on the race plate is that when filling is 
beaten into the cloth the bottom shed is raised up a trifle. Have the 



Practical Loom Fixing 79 

harness shafts level at both ends with the back harness shafts a little 
lower than the front. This is sometimes called an angular shed and is 
obtained by the harness levers coming in farther at the back, in other 
cases by increasing the length of the harness straps. Set the lower 
stud of driving arm about half way in the slot of the driving crank and 
the top stud of connecting arm also about half way in the slot. The 
rocking arm should be vertical when the driving crank is on front or 
back center and the loom crank shaft past bottom center. When the 
driving crank is on top center, set the top knife about one-fourth of an 
inch behind the catch on jack hooks. When the driving crank is on 
bottom center set the bottom knife the same distance behind the catch 
on jack hook. This adjustment is made by set nuts on the knife hooks. 
If this setting does not give the correct size of shed the sweep will have 
to be adjusted at either the driving crank or rocking arm. The object 
of setting the stud about half way in the slot is because that position 
gives a medium sweep of knives. If the shed is found to be too small 
the connecting stud will be brought to the outer end of slot in driving 
c^ank. This will give a. larger sweep, therefore a larger shed, but in 
consequence of this larger sweep, when the driving crank is on top and 
bottom centers the knives will be too far behind the catch on jack hooks. 
It is also possible that this change of sweep may pull the knives too 
far back, so that they will strike the back end of the knife slide. In 
either case the knives will have to be re-adjusted by the set nuts on 
knife hooks. If the shed is too large and a smaller shed is made it is 
possible that the knives may not get back of the catches on jack hooks, 
and will have to be re-adjusted in just the opposite way to the former. 

Fig. 50 illustrates the three positions where adjustment in size of 
shed can be made, indicated by figures 1, 2, 3. 

Pattern Chain Pegging. — In pegging chains, two items have to be 
taken into consideration: First, whether loom is right or left-hand. 
Second, the direction chain barrel revolves. It is necessary that these 
two items be known, especially the first, for the following reason: If 
loom is right-hand, the dobby will be on left-hand side; but if loom is 
left-hand, dobby will be on right-hand side. If chain has been pegged 
tor dobby on right-hand loom it will not work on a dobby on left-hand 
loom unless turned round and last bar used for first. On some patterns 
this does not make much difference, but on others it does. It is advis- 
able to have one system and adhere to it, namely, always begin with first 
harness on one side for all chain plans made. If this is done the chain 
can be made from chain plan with simple instructions. 

To illustrate: Have first harness shaft on right-hand side; also have 
first pick in chain plan on top. On a right-hand loom, chain will be 
pegged from right to left, reading from first harness. On a left-hand 
loom, chain will be pegged from left to right, reading from first harness. 
If this system is used it is only necessary to state whether loom is right 
or left-hand. These instructions are for chain barrel revolving inward 
towards the loom. For an outward revolving chain barel, it will be 
necessay to state this in giving instructions, as R. H. out, and chain will 
be pegged opposite to inward revolving chain barrel. 

Requirements of a Good Dobby.— The dobby that is the simplest in 
its construction where the different parts can be taken out easily to be 
repaired will be the best to use, everything else being equal. All the 
different parts of the dobby should be made in their right proportion. 
The index finger, hooks, needles, should all work free with each other. 
Especial notice should be taken of the index fingers. See that these 
fingers are cast straight and smooth, otherwise they will rub against 



80 



Practical Loom Fixing 



each other and miss-picks will result. This occurs occasionally in a 
double index dobby. When this is the case the fingers will have to be 
taken out and finished off on the emery wheel to take all the rough 
places off them. A dobby that will require all this work doing to it 




Figure 50. 

when new is certainly not the dobby to select. Another requirement is 
that the dobby be of the right capacity with the loom, that is, if the 
loom is only adapted for a twelve harness dobby, it certainly is not 
wise to put on the loom a twenty or twenty-four harness dobby. If this 
is done, every time the lay goes back it will strike the harness shafts 
and cause them to vibrate. This will result in poor weaving, the harness 
shafts will be continually catching on each other and making miss-picks 
and smashes, also if the harness straps are not securely fastened to the 
hooks, the shafts will be continually dropping and making smashes. To 
use a dobby of a capacity of twenty to twenty-four harness shafts there 
should be at least ten inches between lay and crank shaft when lay is 
en back center. This is allowing the harness shafts to be about three- 
eighths of an inch thick. 

PREPARATION OF HARNESS SHAFTS. 

In preparing harness shafts there are several small details which if 
properly attended to will help very materially the production and quality 
of cloth. These details can be enumerated as follows: 

Do not allow the heddles to get rusty. Rub heddle rods evenly with 
tallow or oil, or a mixture of tallow and oil. This allows the heddles 
to slide free on the rods. Put all heddles on shaft the same, that is do 
not put on some heddles with twisted ends on top and other heddles on 
same shaft with twisted ends at bottom. Have the twisted ends of the 
heddles on all shafts the same, that is, have all on top or all on bottom. 
Have only one counts of heddles on a shaft, do not mix fine and coarse 
heddles together. Heddles must work free on heddle rods. The hooks 
tl;at support the heddle rod must not be too deep in the shaft or the 
cods will hold the heddles tight and they will not move freely. Have 
all hooks for heddle rods facing the front. Have heddle rods secured 
on both ends of the harness shaft. This must be especially noticed, as a 
smash often results through heddle rods slipping out. Have harness 
hooks on top of harness shafts set in line. Have harness hooks set so 
that there will be a straight and an even pull on the springs. 



Pracical Loom Fixing 81 

CHAPTER XXII 
DRAWING IN THE WARP. 

Have the harness shafts suspended in front of drawing -in frame 
with heaviest weaving harness in front. This is the general method of 
arranging the harness. For example, if a plain and fancy stripe is being 
made, the plain harness shafts will be on front. If single beam, have 
slasher comb or lease level with heddle eyes. If two or more beams, al- 
ways put yarn from bottom beam over top of drawing in frame first, 
then yarn from the other beams to follow. Have a rod between the 
threads from each beam to keep them separated. There are two methods 
of arranging the combs. First. Have the combs on the top of each 
other. The comb for bottom beam will be on top with the other combs 
underneath. This brings the yarns from top beam in front of the yarn 
from bottom beam. This method does not take up much space. Second. 
Have all the combs level. The back comb will be from bottom beam 
with the other combs in front. Put up harness shafts in right order, 
then have warp drawn in. On many patterns the harness shafts can be 
divided into sections to have the warp drawn in. Take, for example, 
fancy stripe to be made on plain ground. Harness shafts for plain will 
fce in front, harness shafts for fancy stripe will be at back. To divide 
in sections, leave off the plain harness shafts and draw in fancy stripe, 
keeping each stripe separate. Put up the harness shafts for plain and 
draw in the plain threads. When the required number of threads have 
been drawn in on plain harness shafts for one pattern, pull the threads 
for one fancy stripe through plain harness shafts. Repeat this until all 
the warp is drawn in. It must be understood that this cannot be done 
on all patterns, only on those patterns in which the threads from each 
beam forms a stripe with all threads together. 

When warps are to be drawn in without a hander in, the drawing-in 
hand begins on right-hand side; with a hander in, on left-hand side. 
When all threads are drawn through heddles, draw the warp in reed. 
If reed is too wide, divide the space equally on both ends. 
STARTING UP THE WARP. 

Have the loops on harness levers in dobby stepped, that is, the front 
loops in lowest notches; raising the other loops in notches in the same 
proportion. Bring the beams from the drawing in frame on beam truck 
provided for that purpose. Support the harness shafts between crank 
shaft and lay on two rods, then put beams in loom. Hang the harness 
on harness straps. Attach the springs to bottom of harness shafts care- 
fully. This is very important, especially when using fine yarns. It is 
also necessary to have the same strength of spring on each side of the 
shaft. One method of testing springs is as follows: Have a straight 
piece of wood about one yard in length with a screw in one end and at 
the other end lines ruled about half an inch apart with the lines num- 
bered. Take each spring separately, put one end on screw and suspend 
& weight on opposite end. This will pull out the spring a certain dis- 
tance, which will be indicated by the lines. Lay together all springs of 
the same strength, take springs to loom and connect the strongest 
springs to the heaviest harness shaft; that is, the harness shaft that has 
on it the most heddles and has the heaviest lift. Have whip roll level 
with harness eyes so that there will be an equal strain on the yarn when 
shed is open. Fix reed in lay sole and tighten up the lay cap. Pat 
friction rope around beam heads to prevent from turning. Set the 
harness shafts so that the back shafts will be a little lower than the 
front. Both ends of the shafts should be level. Have the yarn jusc 



82 



Practical Loom Fixing 



resting on the race plate. When weaving the yarn will be raised from 
off the race plate somewhat. Tie in the threads carefully to an apron. 
On fine yarns do not tie in too many ends at one time, as it is necessary 
to have every thread drawn tight before tieing to apron, otherwise 
threads will be broken out. 

Divide the heddles equally in sections made by heddle rod hooks. 
If the heddles are not divided equally more will be left on one side than 
the other, and as a result the heddles are pulled out of their true posi- 
tion at the heddle rod hooks, which will cause the heddles to be crowd- 
ed at this point so that when the harness shafts are being raised and 
lowered the threads are chafed. This is illustrated at Fig. 51. Put. in 
the lease rods. For large rod, raise back harness shaft and every alter- 



A <&&T<<g< 




Figure 51. 

nate harness shaft. For small rod raise the opposite harness shafts. Set 
temples the required width. See that they do not come in contact with 
race plate or touch the reed. Put pattern chain in dobby and turn over 
lay. Open out the shed and throw shuttle through three or four times 
in same shed, then turn lay over and repeat this several times before 
starting up loom by power. Put on right pick gear. Occasionally a 
pattern chain is made to weave plain on all the harness shafts so as to 
get in the loose threads if there are any and to obtain a better starting 
up of the warp. 

CHAPTER XXIII 

DOBBY FIXING POINTS. 

The greatest fault that can be found with dobby cloths is miss-picks, 
and many pieces are rejected and put in seconds on account of them. 
This is especially true when old dobbies are used. There are various 
causes for miss-picks, which can by a little care be remedied before 
much damage is done. A number of these causes will be mentioned 
and a remedy for some, or a short explanation as to how the miss-pick 
is caused and the remedy can be applied. 

Pegs in Chain Bar Not Set Straight.— The pegs should be put in the 



Practical Loom Fixing 83 

chain bar perfectly straight, if not, the pegs that are not straight will 
get in between, the index fingers. The index finger that ought to be 
raised will not be and a miss-pick result. Under each index finger there 
is a small groove, and if the peg is straight in the bar it will work in 
the groove. The chain should be put on the barrel and every bar ex- 
amined before the loom is started up. This is illustrated at Fig. 52, 
showing two pegs between index fingers. 




Figure 52. 

Wrong Setting of Chain Barrel. — The chain barrel should not be set 
too high nor too low. If set too high the index fingers will jump and 
this will have a tendency for them to catch on the knife when knife 
is coming out. If the chain barrel is set too low the hooks will not be 
lowered enough to get fully on the knife and as the knife moves out 
the hooks will often slip off. Especially will this be the case if the 
knife is worn. In some dobbies the knife can be turned when worn on 
one side. In other dobbies the knife will have to be ground down 
straight all the way across and then re-set to take up the amount ground 
off. When a harness shaft drops in this manner the threads on that 
shaft are often broken out. This also causes the shuttle to fly out 
occasionally. 

Chain Barrel on Wrong Time. — The chain barrel must be set on 
correct time. A good general setting is to have the pegs in the chain 
bar directly under the index fingers with the knife about one-quarter 
of an inch from the catch on the jack hook with knife making its outward 
movement. If the chain barrel is being turned by a pawl from the 
rocking arm, see that the check on the shaft of the chain barrel holds 
the barrel steady after being turned, also, that the pegs are directly 
under the index fingers with fingers at the highest point. This means 
that if the fingers are at the highest point, the jack hooks will be at 
the lowest, or in other words, over the knife so that as the knife 
comes forward the hooks will be caught by it. The check on shaft is 
a star wheel setscrewed on the shaft. A small roll is held against the 
wheel by a spring, which holds the barrel securely after being turned. 
If this star wheel should slip the chain barrel will be on wrong time 
and as a result the pegs do not fall under the index fingers and miss- 
picks result. The pawl may be set too low in slot of rocking arm and 
the chain barrel pulled over a little too far. In this case the check 
may possibly force the barrel to its correct position, but if it should 
fail to do this a miss-pick will result, because the barrel will not be 
in correct position. The remedy is to set the pawl higher in the slot 
and readjust the ratchet gear to the pawl. 



84 Practical Loom Fixing 

Weak Spring on Chain Barrel Shaft.— The spring is held on shaft 
by a collar, which keeps the clutch in contact with the worm gear, 
this gear being loose on the shaft. If the spring should become weak, 
the clutch will be forced out of connection and chain barrel will not be 
turned. It occasionally happens when a large number of pegs are put in 
one chain bar that the check is forced out when the spring is weak. 
I he remedy is to move in the collar which tightens up the spring. 

Harness Levers Too Tight.— The harness levers should not be too 
tight or they will bind. They should be just tight enough to drop of 
their own weight before the harness shafts are attached to them. This 
is regulated by set screws on the front and back of the dobby frame. 
The ends of these set screws are in contact with the bottom portion of 
an harness lever, and by turning these set screws in or out the desired 
movement of the harness levers can be obtained. Also, neglect in oil- 
ing will cause them to bind. 

Jack Hook Binding. — If a jack hook fits too tight on the jack where 
book is connected, it will cause the hook to bind. This will keep the 
hook from dropping over the knife and harness shaft will not be raised. 
The end of the jack can be opened a little with a screw-driver, but care 
must be taken not to open too wide or it will catch on the end of the 
next jack when returning, and this keeps the threads from being lowered 
to their regular position and makes a miss-pick as well as causing 
them to be broken out. The jack with the opened end will be raised by 
the next jack when it ought not to be, and this often causes threads to 
be broken out. The best method to ascertain whether the miss-pick 
is caused by the jack hook binding is to raise up the hook and it should 
drop of its own weight. It will do this if working free. If a jack hook 
touches or comes in contact with the guide it is often prevented from 
dropping. In some cases the hook drops, but too late to be caught on 
the knife, and the harness shaft is left down when it ought to be raised. 

Index Finger Binding. — An index finger occasionally touches or 
comes in contact with a pin in pin-board or the index finger guide. This 
prevents the finger from dropping and a harness shaft is raised when it 
ought not to be. This can be prevented by setting the index finger so 
that it will pass clear between the pins or guide. Another cause of 
finger binding is given in "Requirements of a good dobby." 

Chain Bar Too Short. — Occasionally a chain bar is a little shorter 
than it ought to be. This allows the bar to slip about on the barrel and 
causes a peg to get in between the index fingers, especially if the peg 
should happen to be a little crooked in the bar. 

Chain Bar Too Large. — Occasionally a chain bar is a trifle too large. 
The bar will fit tight in the chain barrel and instead of dropping from 
the chain barrel is taken around with it and the chain gets stuck. 

Peg Too Short. — Occasionally a short peg is put in the chain. The 
index finger is not raised high enough, consequently the jack hook is 
not lowered sufficiently to be caught on the knife. 

Bent Connecting Links. — Chain bars are connected to each other by 
small links. Often additional bars have to be added, and when con- 
necting them together these small links are bent, and this in many 
cases brings the bars a trifle closer than they ought to be. The result 
is that the bars will occasionally bind on the chain barrel instead of 
dropping off, and this causes the chain to get stuck. 

Chain Bars Too Far Apart.— If the connecting links are not pressed 
together as close as they should be, the bars will occasionally ride on 



Practical Loom Fixing 85 

the barrel, which causes a miss-pick. This often happens when chain 
bars are tied together with twine on account of the knots slipping. 

Chain Barrel Not Turned Over Far Enough by Pawl.— If barrel is 
not turned over far enough by pawl, the pegs will not be in correct 
position. The check sometimes forces the barrel to correct position, but 
if it fails to do so a miss-pick results. 

Worn Index Finger and Index Finger Rod. — If the rod which passes 
through all the index fingers is worn the fingers will not work steady, or 
if the index finger bearing is worn the result will be the same, there 
will be too much lost motion. The principal reason for the bearing or 
rod wearing out is neglecting to oil these parts. This fact cannot be 
emphasized too strongly. The only remedy is to insert new index finger 
and rod. 

Other Causes. — Unequal springs on harness shafts will cause miss- 
picks. Poor filling will also cause miss-picks or perhaps a better term 
for this is broken picks. The filling will break and catch again on the 
same pick and this shows a broken pick in the middle of the cloth. This 
occurs mostly on fine work. 

CHAPTEB XXIV 

WEAVE ROOM MANAGEMENT. 

Scientific principles are involved in all processes through which 
cotton is manufactured. In no part of the mill can the principles of 
scientific management be better applied than in the weave room, or in 
other words, efficiency is desired and striven for in the weave room. In 
a weave room there are so many small details to be attended to and so 
many different conditions in which labor is involved that there should 
be some form of efficient and practical management conducted in a 
scientific manner to produce the best results. It is impossible to name 
all the points that should be looked after in keeping a weave room up 
to the top notch in efficiency and production, but some of the principal 
points can be enumerated: 

Starting Up On Time. The overseer should be in his place to see 
that all looms are started on time. A loss of one minute on four hundred 
looms is a loss of 400 minutes work, and this is a big item. The influence 
of the "on time" overseer is a great help to the operatives. 

Care of Looms. Efficient weaving depends on the looms.. Every part 
must be nicely adjusted and work in harmony with other parts. 
Looms should be thoroughly cleaned every time a warp is woven out. 
All oil holes should be cleaned out. All lost motion should be taken out, 
especially in crank arms. Loose nuts should be tightened. All parts of 
the loom should be thoroughly oiled with a good oil. An oil that drips 
and splatters should be avoided as this causes too many "seconds," is 
wasteful and is not clean as too much drops on the floor. A, 00000, Non- 
Fluid Oil gives satisfactory service as it is adhesive and clings to the 
part being lubricated, therefore practically abolishing spattered warps. 
As looms are oiled when in motion, it is particularly desirable to have 
an oil that will not scatter when put on the cams, and K, 00 Special Non- 
IlUid Oil gives the desired results. 

Belts. The belts should be watched particularly. Belts too loose 
mean a loss in p.oduction; belts too tight also means a loss because of 



86 Practical Loom Fixing 

excessive wear ion the various parts of loom. A medium tight belt 
should be used and a good belt dressing applied occasionallv. 

Good Warps. Good warps are absolutely necessary to have good 
quality ana guod production. Good warps should be sized correctly, 
should not be either too soft or too hard sized. Ends should not come 
vp broken, neither should they be rolled, that is crossed and twisted. 
All these defects cause bad work and loss in production. Many times 
warps have to be cut out of loom because of these defects. Soft warps 
can occasionally be remedied to a, certain extent by having a wax rod 
on the yarn as the yarn is coming off the loom beam. This strengthens 
the yarn by coating it with wax, and in many case r is a big saving be- 
cause soft warps can be woven out. Hard sized warps can sometimes 
be woven by having a damp cloth in t^e form of a roll and resting on 
the yarn below the whip roll as the yarn is coming off the beam. 

Even with good yarn it is almost impossible to weave cloth without 
having some ends break. Breakage will be more or less according to 
the strength of the yarn, the setting of the various parts of the loom, 
the regulation of weight on the beam, together with other details such 
as having shuttles in good condition; yarn bottoming too deep, etc. 
If there are excessive breakages and the loom is in good condition there 
is something wrong with the preliminary processes. The yarn may be 
good from the spinning room, but is being stretched and the elasticity 
taken out. of it in the spooling: and warping processes or the size is not 
penetrating into the yarn or the yarn may be scorched. 

Waste. All waste should be reduced to a minimum. Looms picking 
too hard is a waste of power and also causes a loss owing to excessive 
breakages. Time can be saved by arranging tie ends so they will puJ" 
out easily when a broken end has to be tied. On common looms, a full 
shuttle should always be ready for use when the fdling is woven off the 
bobbin in the loom, or on Draper looms the magazine should not be 
allowed to get empty. 

There is always a certain amount of waste in yarn and cloth at 
the starting up and finishing of a warp. The cut mark should be as near 
the end of the warp as possible and the end of warp should be tied to an 
apron or tied in some way to the loom beam so that the mark can be 
woven up to the lease rods. The first cut mark should not be too far 
from the end so as not to make too much waste at the beginning. It is 
better to tie new warps to aprons rather than to the cloth in the loom. 
V the cloth is torn in order to tie up the new warp, ten to twelve inches 
of cloth is wasted and this is quite an item on a large number of looms. 

Bobbins on Floor. Full bobbins on floor should be picked up at once 
otherwise the yarn will get dirty and cannot be used. The bobbin is 
liable to be stepped on and get broken and is worth about 1% cents, so 
that through lack of care this is wasted. All filling waste should be 
kept clean. 

System of Setting Shedding Cams. Shedding cams should always be 
set on looms in a regular manner so that the loom fixer will know at once 
which is the large cam. This will save considerable time when starting 
up warp. 

Setting of Whip Rolls. On goods of the same construction, all whip 
rolls should be set in the same position. This will produce the same 
appearance on all the cloth. If the whip rolls are not set the same, 
some cloth will have "cover" on the face and other cloth of the same con- 
struction will be reedy. 



Practical Loom Fixing 87 

Uneven Cloth. A strict watch should be kept on uneven or streaky 
cloth. This is usually caused by either the let-off or the take-up motion 
being out of order. Sometimes streaks are made by the weaver turning 
the take-up gears but this should not be allowed. 

Supplies. The overseer should have all supplies locked up. He 
should keep a record of all supplies given out, the date given out and 
to whom given. Shuttles are a great expense and it is a good plan to 
keep the date when shuttles are put in looms. This can be done by the 
loom fixer. 

If the cost of each article given out is known, the cost for each loom 
fixer per month can readily be ascertained. The good loom fixer always 
>trives to keep down cost of supplies. 

Reports. The various weave room reports should be made out each 
clay, such as weavers out; looms stopped and cause for same; warps 
out; cuts woven, etc. An estimate should be made of the number of 
warps that will run out during the coming week as this will enable the 
superintendent to plan his work, especially on fancy and colored goods. 

Examination of Cloth. The cloth as it is taken from the loom should 
t.e marked with the number of loom and carried to the place provided 
for it. Each day the cloth should be entered on the production sheet for 
'he weaver and should be examined each day. By doing this the overseer 
can keep up with the amount of bad cloth made, the weavers who are 
making it and in many cases will be able to prevent the making of 
more bad cioth by looking into the various causes of same. The weaver 
is not always responsible for the bad cloth made and responsibility for 
same should be accurately and definitely placed. 

CHAPTER XXV 

CALCLUATIONS FOR COTTON HARNESS. 

The counts of cotton harness are usually calculated in two different 
ways. First, by having a certain number of harness eyes on a specified 
width. Second, by having a certain number of "biers" on a specified width. 
A bier has always twenty harness eyes and is indicated by a piece of twine 
passing over this number of eyes, generally on top of harness. 

Calculations for cotton harness are made for either two or four har- 
ness shafts, the finer grade of goods being made on four shafts. These 
calculations are always made to correspond with the reed, for example, 
if a number 30 reed has to be used then 30 eyes will be required per inch 
one each shaft, using two shafts. 

Example 1.— A sheeting fabric has to be made with 48 ends per inch, 
40 inches wide. Harness eyes to be spread 42^4 inches. How many har- 
ness eyes on each shaft, using two harness shafts? 

48X40=1920 ends in warp, without selvage ends. 

1920-^2=960 eyes on each shaft. 

Selvage ends are added to outside ends in cloth and do not have to 
be used in calculation for harness eyes. 

Example 2.— The harness for a plain warp has to be spread 40 inches, 
the warp having 3360 ends. Use two harness shafts. 

How many eyes on each shaft? How many biers on each shaft? 

3360-^2=1680 eyes on each shaft. 

1680-^-20=84 biers on each shaft. 

Example 3.— A fine fabric has to be made with 120 ends per inch, 36 



88 Practical Loom Fixing 

inches wide. Harness eyes to be spread 38 inches. Use four harness 
shafts. 

How many eyes on each shaft? How many biers on each shaft? 

120X36=4320 ends in warp, without selvage ends. 

4320-^-4=1080 eyes on each shaft. 

1080-^-20=54 biers on each shaft. 

Frequently a fabric has to be made in which the number of ends in 
fabric are less than the number of eyes on harness shafts. When this 
occurs, the extra eyes have to be left on each side of the harness. 

Example 4. — A set of two harness contains 9QV4. biers on 40 inches on 
each shaft. The warp to be drawn through this harness has 3744 ends. 

How many eyes will have to be left over and how left over? 

96 1 /4X20=1925 eyes on each shaft. 

3744-^2=1872 ends to be drawn through each shaft. 

1925 — 1872=53 eyes to be cast out or left over. 

53-^2=26 eyes on one side, 27 eyes on the other to be left out. 

When a mill is making only one or two grades of standard goods 
there is little difficulty in keeping a supply of harness shafts on hand. 
In mills that make a variety of styles it sometimes happens that when 
an order is received for a fabric of a certain construction, the correct 
counts of harness are not on hand and will have to be ordered. Often, to 
save time, an old set of harness can be used until the new harness shafts 
are ready. This can only be done when there is a smaller number of ends 
in the new cloth than there are harness eyes in the old harness. If there 
are more ends in the new cloth than in the old cloth, new harness shafts 
will have to be obtained. 

When using an old set of harness shafts in which there are 'more eyes 
than there are ends in the new cloth, the extra eyes will have to be left 
over at different points across the harness. It is not advisable to leave 
too many empty eyes at one place. 

Example 5. — A new cloth has to be made with 1792 ends, the harness 
eyes to be spread 30 inches. The old harness to be used has 1104 eyes on 
30 inches, on each shaft. Two harness shafts used. 

How many harness eyes will have to be left over? How will they bt, 
left over? 

1792-^2=896 ends to be drawn through one shaft. 

1104 — 896=208 extra eyes to be left over on each shaft. 

208-^-30=6.93 or 7 eyes left over per inch on each shaft. 

Example 6. — A fabric has been made with 1542 ends. Harness eyes 
for same spread 30 inches. A new fabric is required with 1404 ends to be 
made on same harness. Two harness shafts. 

!How many eyes will be left over on each shaft? How left over? 

1542—1404=138 eyes to be left over. 

138-^-2=69 eyes to be left over on each shaft. 

69-^30=2.3 eyes to be left over per inch; or 7 every three inches; or 
2-2-3 eyes per inch on each shaft. 

Example 7. A fabric has to be made with 2520 ends, harness for same 
to be spread 30 inches. The only available harness is a set of two shafts 
that has 96 biers on each shaft on 40 inches. 

How many eyes will have to be left over on the width of harness used? 
How left over? How many biers to be left over at each end of harness 
shaft? 

96X30 

=72 biers on 30 inches on each shaft. 

40 



Practical Loom Fixing 89 

72X20—1440 eyes on 30 inches on each shaft. 

2520—2=1260 ends to be drawn through harness on 30 inches. 
. 1440 — 1260=180 eyes to be left over on each shaft on 30 inches. 

180—30=6 eyes per inch to be left over on each shaft. 

96 — 72=24 biers extra; 12 left over on each side of each shaft. 
WIRE HEDDLES. 

On many kinds of plain fabrics, wire heddles are now being used. 
Some users of these heddles claim that they get as good results as with 
cotton harness with the additional advantage that they do not wear out 
as quickly as the cotton harness; also that they can be used on any num- 
ber of ends in fabric by putting on each shaft the required number of 
heddles. 

The calculations for wire heddles is about the same as for ordinary 
cotton harness, that is the number of ends in warp divided by the num- 
ber of harness shafts used will give the number of heddles required on 
each shaft. 

CALCULATIONS FOR REEDS. 

On all reeds there is a wide strip of steel at each end, on which the 
number of reed is indicated. In general there are two systems of indicat- 
ing the number of reed. First, The number of dents per inch is stamped 
on the end of reed. Second, the total number of dents in reed and the 
width of reed is stamped on the end of reed. A third method is also used 
by indicating on end of reed the sley reed, that is, the number of ends 
per inch in the reed. In ordinary work, two ends are supposed to be 
drawn through each dent. The selvage ends are extra on each side and 
are not used in calculations. 

When the number of ends per inch is known and the number of ends 
in a dent equal, the number of reed can be readily ascertained. 

Example 9. — A fabric has to be made with 1584 ends, spread 28 inches 
in reed. 16 extra ends added for selvage. What reed used? 

1584 — 16=1568 ends without selvages. 

1568—28=56 ends per inch in reed. 

56-2=28 reed. 
Example 9. — A fabric has to be made 27 inches wide with 64 ends per 
inch. 30 inches in reed. 24 ends extra selvage. What reed will be used? 

64X27=1728 ends without extra selvage ends. 

1728—2=864 dents to be spread on 30 inches. 

864—30=28.8 reed. Or, can be indicated 

864 — 30 which means 864 dents on 30 inches. 

In the production of stripe fabrics the ends are not drawn through 
the reed equally throughout. Some portion of the fabric may have two 
ends per dent, then another portion four or six ends per dent, according 
to the density of the stripe required or the thickness of the ends used. 
The following example will illustrate. 
Example 10. — A warp is reeded as follows : 

16 dents 2 ends in a dent equals 32 ends 
4 dents 4 ends in a dent equals 16 ends 

14 dents 2 ends in a dent equals 28 ends 
6 dents 4 ends in a dent equals 24 ends 

40 dents 100 ends 

100—40=2% ends per inch. 

Using a 20 reed, how many ends per inch 2^X20=50 ends per inch in 
reed. 



90 Practical Loom Fixing 

There is always a contraction between cloth width and the width of 
yarn in reed. This contraction varies according to the proportion of ends 
to picks; sizes of yarns used; weave used and other causes. For example, 
there is generally more contraction on a plain weave than on a sateen 
weave because there are more intersections in plain weave than in sateen 
weave. 

If the warp is hard twisted and the filling soft twisted the cloth will 
contract more in width than in length. 

If the fdling is finer than the warp and soft, the cloth will contract 
more in width. Too much tension on the warp will make cloth longer- 
and narrower in width. One method of obtaining the contraction between 
cloth and width in reed is to take a thread from a certain length of cloth 
and measure same. The difference between cloth length and length of 
thread represents the contraction. 

Another method requires practice and experience to correctly esti- 
mate the amount of contraction. 

Example 11. — A cloth 30 inches wide has 64 ends per inch. Width of 
reed estimated at 32 inches. What number of reed will be used? 

64X30—1920 ends. 

1920-^2=960 dents. 

960-^32=30 reed. 

Still another method is to make a calculation from the sley of cloth 
required and use a rule that will give a sliding rate of contraction. This 
rule is as follows: 

Rule: Deduct 1 from the sley, then from the answer substract 5 per 
cent. The answer will be sley or ends per inch in reed. 

Example 12. — A cloth 30 inches wide has 64 ends per inch. What 
number of reed will be used? 

64-1=63. qC 

63 — 5% =59.85 sley or ends per inch in reed. 

59.85-^2=29.92 reed. 

It will be noticed that the answers to examples 11 and 12 are prac- 
tically the same. This is due to the fact that ends and picks would be 
pbout equal. This rule is not always pratical, but is used frequently 
on average constructions because of the sliding rate which decreases as 
the sley increases. 



Index 91 

Page 

Groove in Shuttle Not Deep Enough 55 

Gudgeons or Beam Spikes Bent 57 

Gingham Looms 63 

Gingham Loom Box Chain Building 66 

Gingham Loom Fixing Points 72 

Guide Plates 74 

Harness Straps Lapping Under ■ 57 

Harness Levers Too Tight ■. 84 

Influence of in Roll on Picks Per Inch 34 

Index Finger Binding 84 

Jack Hook Binding 84 

Lost Motion in Cone 50 

Lease Rods 44 

Loom Banging or Slamming 48 

Late Pick 48 

Loose Picker Stick 50 

Lug Straap Too Far From Picker Stick 51 

Loom Stopping 51 

Loose Top Shed 54 

Loose Crank Arm 57 

Measurements for Size of Shed 17 

Multiplier Motion 67 

Not Sufficient Friction on Filling 52 

Northrop Loom 61 

Overf aced Reed 53 

Operation of Motion and Boxes 64 

Operating Double Index Dobby 76 

Obtaining the Size of Shed 78 

Plain Looms 9 

Picking Motion 20 

Parallel Motion 21 

Protector Motion ~ 38 

Pick Too Early 55 

Pick Too Strong 56 

Preparation of Harness Shafts 80 

Pegs in Chain Bar Not Set Straight 82 

Peg Too Short 8i 

Putting on New Picker 74 

Pattern Chain Pegging 79 

Relation of Picker Stick to Binder 29 

Roll and Spring Top *? 

Rubbing of Dagger Against Frog 52 

Rebounding Shuttle 54 

Rebounding Shuttle 50 

Race Plate Loose 55 

Rope on Friction Let Off Binding 56 

Setting Shedding Motion 9 

Shedding Motion 9 

Setting Harness Roll 1 ■'* 



92 Index 



Page 



Shedding Cams 18 

Setting Lug Straps 23 

Setting the Pickers 24 

Saving Pickers 26 

Setting Picker Stick 26 

Setting Take-Up Pawl 34 

Setting the Motion 35 

Setting the Fork 37 

Shape of Fork 37 

Setting Protector Fingers 40 • 

Setting for Reedy Cloth 40 

Setting for Covered Cloth 41 

Setting the Temple 44 

Shuttles 45 

Shedding Cams Too Early 51 

Shedding Caams Too Late 51 

Shipper Handle Stand Worn 52 

Shuttle Flying Out 53' 

Sharp Eyelet in Shuttle 55 

Shuttle Rising in Box 55 

Sharp Filling Fork aand Grate 55 

Soft Bobbin 56 

Shuttle Spindle Too Small for Cop 56 

Shuttle Spindle Sharp 56 

Small Pinion Gear Too Deep in Beam Head 57 

Still Box Motion 68 

Shuttle Check Cam 71 

Sharp Edges in Boxes 73 

Shuttles Working Loose 73 

Setting the Boxes 74 

Single Index Dobby 76 

Setting Dobby on Loom 78 

Starting Up Dobbies s 78 

Starting Up the Warp 81 

Starting Up on Time , 85 

System of Setting Shedding Cams 86 

Setting of Whip Rolls.. 86 

Supplies 87 

Timing of Shedding Motion 17 

Timing of Picking Motion 23 

Take-Up Motion , 31 

Timing of Stop Motion 38 

Thin Place Preventor 38 

Temples " 43 

Timing of Twill or Sateen Cams 47 

Temple Too Low 55 

Take Up Motion Out of Order 56 

The Stafford Loom 58 



Index 93 

Pago 

Timing of Box Motion 65 

Timing of Still Box Motion 71 

Uneven Cloth 56 

Uneven Filling 57 

Uneven Cloth 87 

Underfaced Reed 53 

Waste 86 

Wire Heddles 89 

Weak Pick 49 

Worn Pick Point 51 

Wrong Timing of Stop Motion Cam 52 

Worn Picker 55 

Worn Pawl and Gear in Gear Let Off 57 

Weak Spring Behind Let Off Pawl 57 

Worm and Worm Gear Binding 57 

Warp Stop Motion 60 

Warp Stop Motions 63 

Wrong Setting of Chain Barrel 83 

Weak Spring on Chain Barrel Shaft 84 

Worn Index Finger and Index Finger Rod 85 

Yarn Too High Off Race Plate 53 



L S- Watson Manufacturing Co. 

LEICESTER, MASS., 

ARE THE LARGEST MANUFACTURERS OF 

WIRE HEDDLES and 
HEDDLES FRAMES. 

We manufacture the TWIN WIRE HEDDLES and also the 

DOMESTIC BRONZE WIRE HEDDLES, and have 

special facilities for the manufacture of IRON 

END HEDDLE FRAMES as well as 

Wooden End Heddle Frames. 

We are manufacturers of Hand Stripping Cards of any length and size of wire. 

We solicit your correspondence when in want. 



INDEX. 

Page 

Auxiliary Shaft for Twill Goods 46 

Automatic or Labor Saving Looms 57 

Arranging the Colors in Boxes 66 

Binders 26 

Beating Up 29 

Belt Slipping 50 

Boxes Too Loose 56 

Box Motion 64 

Breakage Preventors 71 

Binders on Gingham -Looms 72 

Boxes Skipping 75 

Bent Connecting Links 8 1 

Belts 85 

Bobbins on Floor 86 

Construction of Cams id 

Cover or Face on Cloth 40 

Cost of Adding "Face" or Cover to Cloth 42 

Cloth Without Face or Cover 43 

Cloth With Face or Cover 43 

Changes Required 47 

Cracked or Part Broken Lug Strap 49 

Cracked Picker Stick 49 

Change of Atmosphere 50 

Crooked Running Shuttle , '. 52 

Crooked Ruunning Shuttle 55 

Cutting and Filling 55 

Care of Looms 85 

Chain Barrel on Wrong Time 83 

Chain Bar Too Short 84 

Chain Bar Too Large 84 

Chain Bars Too Far Apart 84 

Chain Barrel Not Turned Over Far Enough 85 

Calculations for Cotton Harness 87 

Calculations for Reeds 89 

Dobby Head Motion 75 

Double Index Dobby 76 

Driving Chain Barrel 77 

Drawing in the Warp 81 

Dobby Fixing Points • • • 82 

Effect of Pick on the Eccentricity of Lay 31 

Examination of Cloth 87 

Friction Let-Off 36 

Filling Stop Motion 36 

Filling Slipping Up or Down on Fork 52 

Fork Too Far Through Grate 52 

Filling Catching on Fork 52 

Filling and Bobbins Breaking 56 

Gear Let-Off Motion 34 

Gear Required 47 



"Ideal" Automatic 
Looms 



produce strictly high-grade cloth. 
Practically no seconds or waste. 
Suitable for all manner of textile 
fabrics which can be made with 
one shuttle, plain or fancy, coarse 
or fine. 



Catalogue upon request 



The Stafford Company 

READVILLE, MASS. 
SOUTHERN OFFICE, CHARLOTTE, N. C, 



LOOMS 

BUILDERS OF 

Weaving 
Machinery 

FOR ALL KINDS OF WOVEN FABRICS 



Specialists in 



Jacquards, Dobbies, and Warp Stop Motions 



Grompton & Knowles Loom Works 

WORCESTER, MASS. 
PROVIDENCE, R. I. PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

SOUTHERN REPRESENTATIVES : 

ALEXANDER & GARSED CHARLOTTE, N. C. 



Westinghouse 



IP'"''" 

for 
I Voitlrs 



eeeeeo 



'Sw/ciSmkfc- 



Motors 



Complete 

Electrical Equipment 

for Textile Mills 

Electricity is the best form of power for 
your mill. It is the most ecomical: in- 
creases production; improves quality; and 
betters working conditions. 

Westinghouse Textile Experts are pre- 
pared to give you the benefit of their ex- 
perience in equipping your mill from 
steam supply to the driven machine. 



-"''■-/>■ 






CWESTI-NGHOUStV 
; ELECTRIC J 



yjtm 'A&ve bee. 



Westinghouse Electric and Manufacturing Company 



Atlanta 



East Pittsburgh, Pa. 

Boston Charlotte New York 



Philadelphia 



m 



LiiiLlLKJ lAa 




©DHUGST? OES^DCa ©EtlTCTEIS 

for Power Transmission 




Link-Belt Silent Chain Drive 
Operating Sweater Knitters 



6-H.P. Link-Belt Silent Chain Drive 
Operating Foster Winder 



meet the demand for a quiet, reliable power transmission | 

and tend to increase production. The method of transmitting power to the g 

various machines has a marked effect upon the quality of the product, the rate jj 

of work, the power consumption, durability of machinery, and cost of main- §{ 

tenance. Progressive managers have begun to realize the importance of this g 

element of their equipment, and by giving due consideration to the method of jj 

transmitting the power, have obtained vastly superior results. g 

Link -Belt Silent Chain is "Flexible as a Belt— Positive as a Gear— More g 

Efficient than Either. " fj 

Write for special Book No. 258 "The Ideal Drive for Textile Machinery" jj 

sent on request. jj 

Link-Belt Company 

PHILADELPHIA CHICAGO INDIANAPOLIS ■ 



New York 
Boston 
Pittsburgh 
St. Louis . 
Buffalo . 
Wilkes-Barre . 
Cleveland 
Detroit 
Minneapolis 
Kansas City, Mo 



299 Broadway 

. 47 Federal St. 

. 1501 Park Bldg. 

Central National Bank Bldg. 

698 Ellicott Square 

2nd National Bank Bldg. 

. 429 Rockefeller Bldg. 

732 Dime Bank Bldg, 

418 S. Third St. 

. 407 Finance Bldg. 

Toronto, Can. 



Seattle .... 576 First Avenue, S. 
Portland, Ore. . . . 1st and Stark Sts. 
San Francisco . . . 461 Market St. 

Los Angeles . . . 161 N. Los Angeles St. 
Denver . . . Lindrooth, Shubart & Co. 
Louisville, Ky. Frederick Wehle, Starks Bldg. 
Knoxville, Tenn. . D. T. Blakey, Empire Bldg. 
Birmingham, McCrossin & Darrah, Am. Tr. Bldg. 
New Orleans, . C O. Hinz, Hibernia Bank Bldg. 
Charlotte, N. C . J. S. Cothran, Com'l Bk. Bldg. 
Canadian Link-Belt Co., Ltd. 




Year After Year G-B Apparatus is 
Selected by Mills and Manufacturers 

FOR the big mill additions and extensions as well as 
the small ones G-E apparatus has almost univer- 
sally been selected. This has been true year after 
year for a long time, until today 75 per cent of all electric 
power used in the textile industry passes through G-E 
motors. 

A large majority of the textile machinery manufac- 
turers at the big textile shows consistently select G-E 
motors to drive their exhibits. Where certainty of power 
and excellence of performance are demanded G-E motors 
are considered indispensable. 

The verdict of this highly qualified electorate merits 
your mature consideration. 

Remember the last word in motor design for each and 
every moving machine used in the textile industry can 
be obtained from our engineer salesman, who if 
requested, will study your local conditions before pre- 
scribing. 

General Electric Company 

General Office: Schenectady, N. Y. 

Address Nearest City 

Boston, Mass. New York, N. Y. Philadelphia, Pa. Atlanta, Ga. 

Cincinnati, Ohio Chicago, III. Denver, Colo. San Francisco, Cal. 

Detroit, Mich. (G.E. Co. of Mich.) St. Louis, Mo. 

Dallas, Tex. (So. West G.E. Co.) 




MORSE 

Chain-Driven Spinning Frames 

Efird Cotton Mills, Albemarle, N. G. 

The following are the results obtaining wherever MORSE 
SILENT CHAINS are used: 

1. Higher and positive front roll speed. 

2. Uniform twist. 

3. Fewer ends down. 

4. Better lighting and decreased fire risk through elimination 
of belts. 

5. Decreased labor cost, one operator being able to handle 
more sides. 



MORSE CHAIN COMPANY, 

Ithaca, N. Y. 

Southern Representative, George W. Pritchett 

GREENSBORO, N. C. 





Allis-Chalmers 

Textile Motors 





They Meet Every Requirement 

For Group or Individual Drive 

Allis-Chalmers Manufacturing Company 

Milwaukee, Wisconsin 

Offices in all Principal Cities 



CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES : 

CANADIAN ALLIS-CHALMERS, Ltd., 

TOBOSTO, ONTARIO 



Something About "Belt Slip" 
of Pulleys 




You know that on account of 
"Belt Slip," it is often necessary to 
speed up an engine, in order to bring 
the machines to their proper speed. 

You know that "Belt Slip" is a 
steady leak, that extends all the way 
back to the "Coal Pile." 

You know that "Belt Slip' ' causes 
the belt to wear, 



BUT DO YOU KNOW 

American Steel Split Pulley 

That a cast iron pulley has 100% more "Belt Slip" 
than an "American Steel Split Pulley." 

That it costs from 10% to 14% more for power, when 
it is transmitted by cast iron pulleys, than when "Ameri- 
can Steel Split Pulleys" are used* — due to the extra "Belt 
Slip." 

That "American Steel Split Pulleys" are from 40% to 
60% lighter than cast iron pulleys, designed for equal 
service. 

That for main drives, or where an absolute minimum 
of "Belt Slip' is required, as with motor pulleys, loom, 
spinning and twisting pulleys, "American Steel Split 
Pulleys" with cork insert have 60% less "Belt Slip" than 
"American" pulleys with plain rims. 

That two of the largest and most 
efficiently run manufacturing plants 
in the United States— The Western 
Electric Company of Chicago, and 
the Ford Motor Company of Detroit- 
each have, over 20,000 "American 
Steel Split Pulleys" in service. 

That the greater efficiency claimed 
for "American Steel Split Pulleys" 
is based on scientific tests that have 
been run by reputable consulting 
engineers. 

If you have not used "American Steel Split Pulleys" write for 
free book "Pulley Efficiency." It gives a lot of data that will be 
most interesting to you. 

The American Pulley Company 




American Pulley with Cork Inserts 




PHILADELPHIA, PA. 




A Modern Lubricant for 
Modern Looms 



The world moves onward — step by step. New ideas — 
new methods — new men — must be produced to meet the 
new demands. 

Just as improved looms are rapidly supplanting outworn 
types — so is NON-FLUID OIL an improved lubricant that 
is' replacing common greases and fluid oils. 



TRADE MARK 




UNITED STATES 



PATENT OFFICE 



Fluid oils are wasteful and inefficient. They leak out, 
drip, spatter and cause oil stains. Bearings require con- 
stant re-oiling to keep them from running dry — a loss 
of time as well as lubricant. Output of perfect goods 
from looms is cut down- because of damage from oil. 

Leading mills throughout the country have found it pos- 
sible to get away from these drawbacks by using NON- 
FLUID OIL. 

NON-FLUID OIL is highly adhesive and will never leak 
from bearings. With this product the customary inter- 
vals between oilings can be stretched from five to six 
times — less oil is used, less time spent in oiling, and 

OIL STAINS ON GOODS ARE ELIMINATED 

For all bearings of looms- use "A-No. 00000" grade; for 
all cams, "K-No. 00/Special.' 

Write for "Logical Loom Lubrication" and Free Samples. 
Sole Manufacturers 

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY LURRIGANT GO. 

165 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 



NOTE: NON-FLUID OIL is not the name of a general class of lubricants, 
but of a specific product originated and produced by us exclusively. 



TEXACO LUBRICANTS 
In Textile Mills 

They are keeping down the friction load, saving 
wear and tear, and assisting in the economical 
production and transmission of power. 

We are proud of our showing in the textile mills 
because the many conditions encountered furnish 
such a telling example of the wide range of 
TEXACO LUBRICANTS. 

We are providing lubricants 

For Spindles, Preparation Machinery, 
Engines and Turbines 

Two of our specialties are RABTEX SPINDLE 
OIL, the most efficient bath spindle lubricant 
ever produced, and TEXACO CRATER COM- 
POUND, the great gear lubricant, which reduces 
wear on gears, clings to the metal, doesn't throw 
on to the goods. 

The Texaco Line for textile mills also includes 

Texaco Cylinder Oils, Texaco Turbine Oils, 

Texaco Machine Oils, Texaco Engine Oils, 

Texaco Softening Oils. 

We shall be pleased to answer any inquiries. 



There is a Texico Lubricant for Every Purpose 

THE TEXAS COMPANY 

Dept. X 17 Battery Place, N. Y. City 

Houston Chicago New York 

Offices in Principal Cities 





Steel Heddle Manufacturing 
Company 

21st and Allegheny Ave. Philadelphia, Pa 



World's Largest Manufacturers 
of the 

FLAT STEEL HEDDLE, UNIVERSAL FRAME, 

used for all kinds of 
COTTON, WOOLEN, WORSTED and SILK GOODS 



METAL CUTTING A SPECIALTY 



Doup Heddles, Drop Wires and Heddles, with nickel 
finish, soldered Reeds and reed wire 



Ask for our Double Bar Frame for plain goods weaves. 



qizof 



COMPOUNDS HAVE PROVEN THEIR 
WORTH 

When you use SIZOL you will notice 
that it is clean under the loom. 
SIZOL prevents shedding and also 
makes the warps stronger and more 
pliable. 

SIZOL compounds set the standard 
for the UNITED STATES. 



MANUFACTURED BY 

The Seydel Mfg. Company 

Jersey City, N. J. 

S. C. THOMAS, GEORGE WITHERSPOON, 

Spartanburg, S.C. Mount Olive, N. C. 



Starch 



The efficiency of the loom depends upon the 
sizing of the warp. 

Starch is the most important ingredient of sizing, 
both for increased strength and increased weight. 

A careful selection of the special kind of starch 
best adapted for any desired result cannot be too 
strongly emphasized. 



NOTE THE FOLLOWING BRANDS: 


Eagle Finishing 


Famous N 


400 Mill 


500 Mill 


G. P. Warp Sizing 


Pioneer 



CORN PRODUCTS REFINING CO. 

New York 
Southern Office Greenville, S. C. 

Starch 



National Aniline and Chemical Company, Inc. 

Main Office 
244 Madison Avenue, New York City 

Southern Office 
Commercial Bank Building, Charlotte, N. C. 

. Manufacturers of 

DIRECT COTTON COLORS SULPHUR COLORS 

BASIC COLORS PRIMULINE 

UNION COLORS WOOL COLORS 

KHAKI COLORS FOR GOVERNMENT TRADE, 
BOTH COTTON AND WOOL 



Also Manufacturers of 

TURKEY RED OIL NACCOPOL OIL 

SOLUBLE OILS TETRAPOL OIL 

SIZING COMPOUNDS, FINISHING PASTES, ETC. 

FOR DYEING AND FINISHING 




We sell all kinds of Chemicals for dye houses in cotton, 
woolen, paper mills, etc., including Aniline Oil, Bi- 
chromate of Soda, etc. 

GUM ARABIC 



Our Products 



Jacobs Patented Verybest 
Lug Straps 

Jacobs Patented Roller 
Cushion Lug Straps 

Jacobs Patented Canvas- 
back Lug Straps 

Jacobs Patented Pick Arms 
Jacobs "Special" Lug 
Straps 

Jacobs "Crescent" Lug 
Straps 

Jacobs "Star" Duck Lug 
Straps 

Jacobs "Star" Ticking Lug 
Straps 

Jacobs Jerker and Loop 
Straps 

Jacobs Combination of 
Straps (for silk looms) 

Jacobs Canvas Check 
Straps — plain or rein- 
forced. 

Jacobs Lug Strap Washers 

Jacobs 2 and 3 ply Leather 
Lug Straps 

Jacobs 3 and 4 ply form- 
ed and stitched Lug 
Straps 

Jacobs Canvas Hangups 

Jacobs Leather Hangups 

Jacobs Canvas Connections 

Jacobs Canvas Sweepstrap 
Heads 

Jacobs Leather Bunters 
(Cotton looms) 

Jacobs Canvas Bunters 
(Cotton looms) 

Jacobs Canvas Bumpers 
(Tire fabric looms) 

Jacobs Canvas Holdups 

Jacobs Canvas Loom Strap- 
ping 

Jacobs Leather Loom 
Strapping 



Jacobs Braided Harness 
Dobby Cords 

Jacobs Round Harness 
Straps 

Jacobs No. 44 and No. 46 
XXCY Pickers (for duck 
looms) 

Jacobs No. 27 and No. 37 
XXCY Pickers (for cot- 
ton looms) 

Jacobs B. S. D. (solid die) 
Pickers (for cot. looms) 

Jacobs Jersey Oak Pickers 
(for cotton looms) 

Jacobs Surpass WX Pick- 
ers (for cotton looms) 

Jacobs No. 44, No. 46. No. 
48 y 2 Pickers (for duck 
looms) 

Jacobs Chrome and Oak 
Pickers (for cotton 
looms) 

Jacobs Canvas and Oak 
Pickers (for cotton 
looms) 

Jacobs Canvas Box Pickers 
(Carpet and duck looms) 

Jacobs Leather Loop Pick- 
ers (Draper looms) 

Jacobs Patented Bull Nose 
Pickers (Draper looms) 

Jacobs "Verybest" Loop 
Pickers (Tire fabric 
looms) 

Jacobs Leather Box Pick- 
ers (for silk looms) 

Jacobs "Diamond" Picker 
Loops 

Jacobs Picker Straps 
(6i/ 2 "x7/ 8 ") 

Jacobs Winding Leather, 
scarfed edge 



E. H. JACOBS MANUFACTURING COMPANY 

DANIELSON, CONN. 




BECAUSE FINELY WOVEN CLOTH 
AND BIG OUTPUT ARE ESSENTIAL, 
A LARGE NEW ENGLAND MILL 
USES THIS SHUTTLE IN HUN- 
DREDS OF THEIR C. & K. BOX 
BOOMS. IT HAS 






VITRIFIED ENAMEL EYE 

which allows tender places in yarn to weave 
into cloth instead of breaking and causing 
loss of production; and it has 

IMPROVED MARBLE SPINDLE 

which has no top springs or bottom catches 
or screws to break to damage warp and cause 
loss of production; and it is a shuttle made of 



DOGWOOD 

which does not splinter so readily as per- 
simmon, and lasts longer, is stronger, and 
withstands the gaff so well that looms produce 
more continuosuly; and it is a 

GUARANTEED SHUTTLE 

since made of wood, guaranteed to be free 
from knots and other inherent weaknesses, 
and tips are guaranteed not to loosen. 

SOME or ALL of the above features are the things 
insisted upon by skilful weavers who obtain high- 
est possible production. 

REQUEST US, without obligation to you, to 

examine your conditions and report to you in 

writing what can be accomplished for you by 
re-design of your shuttle. 






t* 



SHAMBOW SHUTTLE COMPANY 

WOONSOCKET R- '■ 



"An Ounce of Prevention 
Is Worth a Pound of Cure" 



M 



ANY OF THE BEST MAN 



I AGED MILLS HAVE ALL 
THEIR LOOMS EQUIPPED 
WITH OUR CAM DEVICE AND 
HUNDREDS OF THE MOST COM- 
PETENT MILL MEN RECOMMEND 
IT. IF YOUR LOOMS ARE NOT 
EQUIPPED, WHY NOT? LIBERAL 
DISCOUNTS IF THE MILL IS 
FULLY EQUIPPED. 



See Page 21 of This Book 



CLINTON CAM COMPANY 

CLINTON, S. C. 




